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Thread: W&B 1" Blade, Scales Template

  1. #1
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    Default W&B 1" Blade, Scales Template

    Hello Gents, I am endeavoring to make my own set of scales for a 1" wade&butcher razor.
    I have been looking for a set of templates to do so, that I can outline on the wood and then cut out.
    anybody out there have something that may be of use to me.

    kind regards, Sean

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    Here you go. Somebody posted this awhile back. It's a collection of the scale profiles from many razors. Maybe there's something of use to you.

    ...Ray
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    You guys do realize that the scale "Profile" is only part of the equation right????
    The "wedginess" of the wedge is the another, it adjusts how deep the razor will sit, the top curve can be adjusted for depth and angle also...
    Keep in mind on the "Profile" the position of the "belly" is also important ie: The 7/8 Friodurs compared to the 8/8 Friodurs, it isn't the size of the scales that messes those two up it is the position of the "belly" of the scales that allows the 8/8 heel to become dangerous....

    Basically these are the details that differentiate a "Custom Fit" set of scales from a set of "Custom Scales"

    Hope that helps rather than confuses ...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 06-08-2011 at 08:35 PM.
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    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    If there isn't a fitting template in the link Sando provided, drop me a PM and I'll send you a tracing. While it is true that many factors come into play in matching scales to a razor, I personally like to draw from traditional scales, make small modifications to the profile, and then tweak the wedge to make everything fit together. That's the nice thing about having multiple factors that affect how well something works - you get to choose which ones you want to change and by how much in order to end up with the final product you want. Though you do have to keep in mind that each factor can only be tweaked to a certain extent, and if you start off with something wildly inappropriate, it may not be possible to make it work. But with from the average set of vintage scales off an 8/8 blade, I don't think that should be a problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    You guys do realize that the scale "Profile" is only part of the equation right????
    Well, I've made a grand total of 3 sets of scales. It's safe to say that I'm a rank amateur - what I don't realize is a greater amount than what I do...
    I found it really hard to freehand a drawing of the profile. Tracing an old set was easy and then I adjusted it to fit.

    ...Ray

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sando View Post
    Well, I've made a grand total of 3 sets of scales. It's safe to say that I'm a rank amateur - what I don't realize is a greater amount than what I do...
    I found it really hard to freehand a drawing of the profile. Tracing an old set was easy and then I adjusted it to fit.

    ...Ray

    That part is the trick you got it

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    Senior Member Caledonian's Avatar
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    As has been said, making the scales fit a given blade, covering it close to the spine and yet not having the heel sticking out to damage itself or you, is a problem not entirely soluble from templates.

    If you have to draw your own scales, the golden rule for most things with a hole is that you determine the inside first, and then shape the outside around it. It is a whole lot easier to make scales with a third rivet (probably covered in a sleeve of the scale material) against which the tang will come to rest. It's best, though, if the tang is quite a firm fit between the scales when closed, so that the razor isn't liable to flop open by accident. Even if you plan to use rivets, some tiny screws and nuts (or screws and holes threaded with a tap in an appropriate scale material) are useful for the planning process.

    Position your tang rivet and third-rivet holes, and locate the blade upon them. Pencil the outline of the blade on the scale material, then you draw the outline of your scales around it, and that will tell you where to put the rivet at the far end of the handle. If there is a third rivet, it looks best if it is central on the scales.

    An invaluable aid to drawing is what is charmingly known as a set of French curves. A wide selection are illustrated on eBay. A flexible curve may also be useful. This is a sort of fat, narrow ruler in soft plastic, with a core of lead or something which holds whatever shape you bend it into. You can do the same with a piece of coathanger wire, or by laying a jewellery chain on the paper, till you get a shape that says "I'm a razor scale!"

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    Another possibility is that you can scan or photograph a set of scales, or even a complete razor, which appeals to you. Most graphics programs will let you scale (!) them up or down as you like, or in length or width only, to suit a blade of different width. If you print these out (and a plain printer and letter paper is fine for this), you will soon find something that suits your blade.
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