Thread: Warped, inlaid celluloid. Thoughts on fixing?

So I got this lovely in the mail the other day.


Wm. Elliot MOP by Zak Jarvis, on Flickr

The blade's in decent shape -- some tarnish and scratching, a bit of rust around the pivot -- but the scales have an unpleasant warp.


Wm. Elliot Scale Warp 2 by Zak Jarvis, on Flickr

It's pretty slight, but enough to rub against the blade.

I read Glen's excellent writeup on correcting scale warp, but I'm wondering if that method's appropriate here, due to the inlay and MOP. Some things I'm willing to just leap in and try (frex: this unremarkable blade has a slight bend in the cutting edge, I wonder if putting it in a vise will fix it? YES!), but this is not one of those things. I would prefer, here, to do everything in my power to keep that inlay safe.

Currently my best plan involves some sort of compression plates (wood, metal, plastic -- dunno, it'll partially depend on what I can find) and maybe a piece of PVC pipe that I can run hot water through so as to heat the scales slowly, controllably, without immersing them.

I'm pretty much assuming I'll have to unpin here. But really, so few of the razors I've gotten even have original pins this just doesn't seem like a huge deal to me, and I've done enough practice with pinning that I've got some confidence that I can do it well.

I don't know how much you read of the actual thread, but I use two 7x2x1/2 inch oak boards with a multitude of holes drilled through them where the scales sit, and two C clamps for these... Clamp, heat, tighten gently , repeat Whether you use steam or air is up to you, how much heat is the "trick" and that comes from experience with your own heat source

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I don't know how much you read of the actual thread, but I use two 7x2x1/2 inch oak boards with a multitude of holes drilled through them where the scales sit, and two C clamps for these... Clamp, heat, tighten gently , repeat Whether you use steam or air is up to you, how much heat is the "trick" and that comes from experience with your own heat source

I recall from the thread that you were thinking about trying metal plates? I'm still so new at this, I'd be afraid of any material that held that much heat. Oak is just my speed.

Come to think of it though, the inlay on the scales you were working with was probably considerably more delicate than this one. The silver on this is embedded down into the celluloid, and not just glued on.

I've got another William Elliot with fancy inlay coming today, it'll be good to practice on. The scales are already pretty wrecked on it (held together with string, no less, and part of the silver is missing).

Do you have any thoughts on keeping the MOP safe? I've never worked with it before, and though my wife's an amateur malacologist, she doesn't let me cut apart and work with any of the shells we've got.

Anytime you have an inlay you have to accept the fact that all this might not work
any kind of inlay holds the heat differently from the scales, that being said I have done this exact set of scales twice in the past using my trusty "Shot-o-Steam" iron and had good luck... Warning: note that I said "My" iron, I have one for razors, do not use the wife's

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Anytime you have an inlay you have to accept the fact that all this might not work
any kind of inlay holds the heat differently from the scales, that being said I have done this exact set of scales twice in the past using my trusty "Shot-o-Steam" iron and had good luck... Warning: note that I said "My" iron, I have one for razors, do not use the wife's

Heh. My wife doesn't care so much about the iron, so that's fair game. It's the thousands of meticulously labeled, logged and filed shells she'd be upset about. Fortunately, if I get a bug to make my own MOP, we're near enough to the beach I can just go get some.

I'm real glad to hear you've had success with these scales before. Can't say I'm surprised they have a habit of getting kinda bendy!

I'll report back when I've had a chance to flatten'em.

If you can find some sort of adhesive tape that is advertised as standing the temperature you will use, put a piece of it over the inlay. I don't know about this one, but some were done when remeltable glue was the norm, and if it doesn't pop out, it'll be as good as ever when it cools.

Another point worth considering is doing your straightening with the end of handle rivet removed. You might find it is much easier to achieve straightness with the holes slightly out of alignment, but close enough to be made up by a slightly larger-diameter rivet, washer or bushing and hole. This would just be trying to achieve bending of the scales, while adjustment with both ends fixed is trying for compression of one, and/or stretching of the other.

Things've been... Busy in my life, so I haven't had a chance to do anything with this razor yet. All I have at the moment is brass pins, and I want to get some silver/nickel ones before I do much here.

Picked up a minty pipe razor the other day with the exception of some badly warped scales.
Unpinned it,clamped the scales between pces of hardwood.
Put them on the dash of the truck,90degs out yesterday,rolled up the windows and let them set all day,next morning,they were perfect,simple but effective