Thread: How to pin? Several techniques that I have seen... Max, Glen etc...

Originally Posted by Maximilian

I personally don't like the domed washers so I don't make or use them. I do however love the stacked washers look. The trick to start peening for me is to cut the rod to the correct length, making sure I have just the right amount needed, not to much, not to short and flatten both ends, especially to get rid of the rough cut from the cutters. Gently taping and going in circles alternating between both sides of the scales. I do my polishing of pins and washers after I'm done peening. Knowing how much of the length's rod will be enough is something you learn with experience and peening a few hundred times. As with everything, the more you do it, the better you get.

If you were to use a "guide" to say what is enough pin sticking out, how much would it be? I've only done 4 sets of scales and I get a different look every time. I'd love to have some sort of gauge or template or something...

Originally Posted by tumtatty

If you were to use a "guide" to say what is enough pin sticking out, how much would it be? I've only done 4 sets of scales and I get a different look every time. I'd love to have some sort of gauge or template or something...

I think this is personal preference as well as seeing what works best.
some people like smaller domes on the pins some larger.
I usually leave ~0.5mm on each side.

+1 to Max and the others. Know how much pin u want, not too much not too little. Make sure it is filed flat ( the more time u take making sure it looks good and flat the better ur end result will be ) Lots and Lots of tiny taps in a circular motion , I personally count the taps I do to make sure its even before i do when polishing I dont use white rouge because on me it tends to get stuck underneath the bottom stacked washer, ,so I stick to mothers mag and micro mesh usually. If the dimples are really bad Ill use sandpaper to take em down.

After peening rod in vice, I assemble with washers, cut excess rod, and final size on belt sander. When I file, too easy for me to accidentally score the scales.

Polished ballpeen and jewlers block as noted above.

After tight, I always final shape wedge edge to assure clean fit, so end up with MicroMesh on the scales, after tight. So I MicroMesh the pin head at same time.

I realize the pivot will get wacked to tighten someday anyway, but why not make pretty from the start.

Originally Posted by dirtychrome

After peening rod in vice, I assemble with washers, cut excess rod, and final size on belt sander. When I file, too easy for me to accidentally score the scales.

Polished ballpeen and jewlers block as noted above.

After tight, I always final shape wedge edge to assure clean fit, so end up with MicroMesh on the scales, after tight. So I MicroMesh the pin head at same time.

I realize the pivot will get wacked to tighten someday anyway, but why not make pretty from the start.

Funny, when I use the belt sander to final size it is too easy for me to accidentally score the scales. I'm the opposite and find more control with the hand file. Just another way to skin a cat

Some of you guys are true experts! ME? I find myself unpinning and trying again waaay too often! I have become a true expert in disassembly! I suppose that is how you learn! One thing I have found helpful is to anneal the pins by holding in the middle with needlenosed pliers and, using a propane torch, heat the ends up good and dunk it in the water. It seems to make the peening more effective with the rod I currently have. I find it is better to err on the long side, until you bend the pin! It is nice to see a good pin job! I find myself gravitating to the pins first when looking at a guy's work. This is the art of assembly, and all the work in the world sucks with a poor pin job, IMHO. Still, Tight is tight!

This is mostly good experience and sound advice. But nickel-silver can become brittle if it is overheated in annealing. This used to be a danger with the cupro-nickel jackets (substantially the same stuff, though sometimes with more nickel and a whiter hue) which were once used on rifle bullets. Bullets could break up too easily on a large animal, leaving him with some score-settling time, and bullets were known to weep tiny amounts of friction-melted lead core, making them assymmetrical in weight, and inaccurate.

You should aim for the least amount of annealing which will make the end feel softer when lightly filed.

Originally Posted by Harvitz81

Funny, when I use the belt sander to final size it is too easy for me to accidentally score the scales. I'm the opposite and find more control with the hand file. Just another way to skin a cat

That's a very valuable point. One person's technique, may not be right for someone else. It's a blast to find what works for myself.

Me, I enjoy working scales on the sander, making the outboard face as contoured as reasonable. Others like making sharp beveled edges.

As I reflect maybe since I spend so much time sculpting on the sander, that's where I am comfortable. When I pin the razor, I constantly move and rotate, never holding square to the block as I tap off center to the pin.

Put a file in my hand, right between those processes, I suspect I cant think 2D and hold the file square after making an organic shapped scale, and anticipating pininng in a similar rounded manner.

This may be an example to not fight your personality, but use it to your advantage; Just do what works best for you.