Thread: How to pin? Several techniques that I have seen... Max, Glen etc...

Hey guys I have been looking closely at different pin jobs and was wondering how you do it so well. Mine always looks rough compared to yours.
It looks like you use a few different types and sizes.
also how to make a domed washer pin?
Thanks for input.

Paul

The two surfaces have to be polished ... very light taps as you finish it up...

Many of the guys polish the washers and pins after peenning, I however do not, I only use a highly polished hammer and a polished Jeweler's block for final peening...

This is a YMMV situation as with many things in this sport

Domed washers are done with a Doming set like this only I personally like the Brass ones and you only need the the 6 smallest sizes for what we do

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-piec...set-93539.html

I'll be the first to admit.. I dont use gentle taps, and I sometimes even use a 12oz hammer if I'm using NiAg rod. I also prefer ball peen hammers with less pointy ends - i.e., more "gentle curved" hammers. usually a 20-30 second buff of the peened pin head will remove any hammering marks. Perfect looking peens is way more about leaving the correct amount of rod sticking out than it is about the hammer strikes. If you want bad looking peens, leave a lot of rod sticking out, unless you are REALLY patient and use light taps to perfectly dome them out. If you want great looking peens without a lot of effort and without worrying too much about how hard you are swinging the hammer, leave a very small amount of rod sticking out. A few whacks, and it will be held tight, and a few more and you're all done.

Just my experiences and opinions. +1 on the HF dome set Glen suggested though.

I use a polished hammer and anvil, as Glen advised, but I still like to buff the pins afterwords to eliminate the facets in the pin that result from the hammering. I drilled various holes in a Coke can I cut open (brass sheet works well too); I just pick the right size, lay the guard over the pin to expose the part I want buffed, and give it a quick run on the buffer. Takes out all the facets (as far as I can see), leaving one continuously smooth surface. Given that I do the buffing, I probably don't really need polished surfaces, but I still like them.

If you don't have a buffer, you could probably use a similar guard and sand lightly with high grits (micromesh?).

I personally don't like the domed washers so I don't make or use them. I do however love the stacked washers look. The trick to start peening for me is to cut the rod to the correct length, making sure I have just the right amount needed, not to much, not to short and flatten both ends, especially to get rid of the rough cut from the cutters. Gently taping and going in circles alternating between both sides of the scales. I do my polishing of pins and washers after I'm done peening. Knowing how much of the length's rod will be enough is something you learn with experience and peening a few hundred times. As with everything, the more you do it, the better you get.

As mentioned, it just takes a lot of practice and the key is to use the correct length of rod so that your peens look the same on both sides. When I started I quickly learned to not leave too much material hanging over or your peens are going to look bad. I usually cut my rod a little longer than need with flush cutters. I use a file to sand the end smooth, insert through the washers and scales and gently tap that end to get a peen started. I then flip the razor over to the other side and cut the rod to close to the amount that I want hanging out to get nice sized, but not too big of peens. Use a hand file to sand that side smooth as well and begin peening, back and forth with light taps until it is snug.

I also polish after with a quick trip to white rogue and then some mothers aluminum polish. After you've done a lot of these it becomes second nature.

I do same as Max, going in circles to make the peen look very even.
To get rid of the facets I find using denim with some Mothers as polishing agent works very well. Denim seems to be a bit abrasive in combination with the polishing compound.

Originally Posted by Maximilian

I personally don't like the domed washers so I don't make or use them. I do however love the stacked washers look. The trick to start peening for me is to cut the rod to the correct length, making sure I have just the right amount needed, not to much, not to short and flatten both ends, especially to get rid of the rough cut from the cutters. Gently taping and going in circles alternating between both sides of the scales. I do my polishing of pins and washers after I'm done peening. Knowing how much of the length's rod will be enough is something you learn with experience and peening a few hundred times. As with everything, the more you do it, the better you get.

If you were to use a "guide" to say what is enough pin sticking out, how much would it be? I've only done 4 sets of scales and I get a different look every time. I'd love to have some sort of gauge or template or something...

Originally Posted by tumtatty

If you were to use a "guide" to say what is enough pin sticking out, how much would it be? I've only done 4 sets of scales and I get a different look every time. I'd love to have some sort of gauge or template or something...

I think this is personal preference as well as seeing what works best.
some people like smaller domes on the pins some larger.
I usually leave ~0.5mm on each side.

+1 to Max and the others. Know how much pin u want, not too much not too little. Make sure it is filed flat ( the more time u take making sure it looks good and flat the better ur end result will be ) Lots and Lots of tiny taps in a circular motion , I personally count the taps I do to make sure its even before i do when polishing I dont use white rouge because on me it tends to get stuck underneath the bottom stacked washer, ,so I stick to mothers mag and micro mesh usually. If the dimples are really bad Ill use sandpaper to take em down.