Hey guys I have been looking closely at different pin jobs and was wondering how you do it so well. Mine always looks rough compared to yours.
It looks like you use a few different types and sizes.
also how to make a domed washer pin?
Thanks for input.
Paul
The two surfaces have to be polished ... very light taps as you finish it up...
Many of the guys polish the washers and pins after peenning, I however do not, I only use a highly polished hammer and a polished Jeweler's block for final peening...
This is a YMMV situation as with many things in this sport
Domed washers are done with a Doming set like this only I personally like the Brass ones :) and you only need the the 6 smallest sizes for what we do
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-piec...set-93539.html
I'll be the first to admit.. I dont use gentle taps, and I sometimes even use a 12oz hammer if I'm using NiAg rod. I also prefer ball peen hammers with less pointy ends - i.e., more "gentle curved" hammers. usually a 20-30 second buff of the peened pin head will remove any hammering marks. Perfect looking peens is way more about leaving the correct amount of rod sticking out than it is about the hammer strikes. If you want bad looking peens, leave a lot of rod sticking out, unless you are REALLY patient and use light taps to perfectly dome them out. If you want great looking peens without a lot of effort and without worrying too much about how hard you are swinging the hammer, leave a very small amount of rod sticking out. A few whacks, and it will be held tight, and a few more and you're all done.
Just my experiences and opinions. +1 on the HF dome set Glen suggested though.
I use a polished hammer and anvil, as Glen advised, but I still like to buff the pins afterwords to eliminate the facets in the pin that result from the hammering. I drilled various holes in a Coke can I cut open (brass sheet works well too); I just pick the right size, lay the guard over the pin to expose the part I want buffed, and give it a quick run on the buffer. Takes out all the facets (as far as I can see), leaving one continuously smooth surface. Given that I do the buffing, I probably don't really need polished surfaces, but I still like them.
If you don't have a buffer, you could probably use a similar guard and sand lightly with high grits (micromesh?).
I personally don't like the domed washers so I don't make or use them. I do however love the stacked washers look. The trick to start peening for me is to cut the rod to the correct length, making sure I have just the right amount needed, not to much, not to short and flatten both ends, especially to get rid of the rough cut from the cutters. Gently taping and going in circles alternating between both sides of the scales. I do my polishing of pins and washers after I'm done peening. Knowing how much of the length's rod will be enough is something you learn with experience and peening a few hundred times. As with everything, the more you do it, the better you get.
As mentioned, it just takes a lot of practice and the key is to use the correct length of rod so that your peens look the same on both sides. When I started I quickly learned to not leave too much material hanging over or your peens are going to look bad. I usually cut my rod a little longer than need with flush cutters. I use a file to sand the end smooth, insert through the washers and scales and gently tap that end to get a peen started. I then flip the razor over to the other side and cut the rod to close to the amount that I want hanging out to get nice sized, but not too big of peens. Use a hand file to sand that side smooth as well and begin peening, back and forth with light taps until it is snug.
I also polish after with a quick trip to white rogue and then some mothers aluminum polish. After you've done a lot of these it becomes second nature.
I do same as Max, going in circles to make the peen look very even.
To get rid of the facets I find using denim with some Mothers as polishing agent works very well. Denim seems to be a bit abrasive in combination with the polishing compound.
If you were to use a "guide" to say what is enough pin sticking out, how much would it be? I've only done 4 sets of scales and I get a different look every time. I'd love to have some sort of gauge or template or something...Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximilian
I think this is personal preference as well as seeing what works best.Quote:
Originally Posted by tumtatty
some people like smaller domes on the pins some larger.
I usually leave ~0.5mm on each side.
+1 to Max and the others. Know how much pin u want, not too much not too little. Make sure it is filed flat ( the more time u take making sure it looks good and flat the better ur end result will be :) ) Lots and Lots of tiny taps in a circular motion , I personally count the taps I do to make sure its even before i do when polishing I dont use white rouge because on me it tends to get stuck underneath the bottom stacked washer, ,so I stick to mothers mag and micro mesh usually. If the dimples are really bad Ill use sandpaper to take em down.
Max, what pattern do you use to triple stack? I.E. Large #0 brass with a small nickel silver sandwiched between a small brass?Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximilian
After peening rod in vice, I assemble with washers, cut excess rod, and final size on belt sander. When I file, too easy for me to accidentally score the scales.
Polished ballpeen and jewlers block as noted above.
After tight, I always final shape wedge edge to assure clean fit, so end up with MicroMesh on the scales, after tight. So I MicroMesh the pin head at same time.
I realize the pivot will get wacked to tighten someday anyway, but why not make pretty from the start.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtychrome
Funny, when I use the belt sander to final size it is too easy for me to accidentally score the scales. I'm the opposite and find more control with the hand file. Just another way to skin a cat :D
Some of you guys are true experts! ME? I find myself unpinning and trying again waaay too often! I have become a true expert in disassembly! I suppose that is how you learn! One thing I have found helpful is to anneal the pins by holding in the middle with needlenosed pliers and, using a propane torch, heat the ends up good and dunk it in the water. It seems to make the peening more effective with the rod I currently have. I find it is better to err on the long side, until you bend the pin! :banghead: It is nice to see a good pin job! I find myself gravitating to the pins first when looking at a guy's work. This is the art of assembly, and all the work in the world sucks with a poor pin job, IMHO. Still, Tight is tight! :D
That's a very valuable point. One person's technique, may not be right for someone else. It's a blast to find what works for myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvitz81
Me, I enjoy working scales on the sander, making the outboard face as contoured as reasonable. Others like making sharp beveled edges.
As I reflect maybe since I spend so much time sculpting on the sander, that's where I am comfortable. When I pin the razor, I constantly move and rotate, never holding square to the block as I tap off center to the pin.
Put a file in my hand, right between those processes, I suspect I cant think 2D and hold the file square after making an organic shapped scale, and anticipating pininng in a similar rounded manner.
This may be an example to not fight your personality, but use it to your advantage; Just do what works best for you.
This is mostly good experience and sound advice. But nickel-silver can become brittle if it is overheated in annealing. This used to be a danger with the cupro-nickel jackets (substantially the same stuff, though sometimes with more nickel and a whiter hue) which were once used on rifle bullets. Bullets could break up too easily on a large animal, leaving him with some score-settling time, and bullets were known to weep tiny amounts of friction-melted lead core, making them assymmetrical in weight, and inaccurate.
You should aim for the least amount of annealing which will make the end feel softer when lightly filed.
Hi when I am doing the pins I use a 1/64th brass sheet and have a 1/16th hole drilled in it then I lay this over the rod and file down till I hit the sheet and you end up with a perfect pin every time then I use the same brass sheet with different size holes drilled into it to cover the scales while I buff the pin up. I use the Dremel with a leather buffing wheel and Solvol Autosol to do the final polish.
Here is a photo of the jig I use and the brass sheet the jig has a slot cut into it to put a razor in it so I can work on the spine with out risking my fingers.
The little nut at the top of the jig with the dimple in it is used for making the pins and the holes next to the brass sheet are used for removing pins.
I'm still figuring out how much pin. I like Exile's approach
For peening, I thought I had read it from Glen, but I'm not sure. I use the back (convex) side of a stainless tablespoon as my hammer. I have a small hammer, but the spoon is faster for alot of light whacks.
I always put 2 extra washers on the pin and cut flush. Remove the extra washers, make sure the pin is flat and smooth, then peen. Works every time.