Quote Originally Posted by Str8Raz0r View Post
Str8Shooter,

Here is a thread that I started just recently....might have the answers you need.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-geometry.html


Stu
Quote Originally Posted by holli4pirating View Post
A recent set of posts, I think by Baldy and Glen, suggested half the tang width for the wedge as a starting point. I'd never made that connection, so I usually estimate based on blade width and grind - a wedgey blade needs a wider wedge if you want it to sit halfway or deeper, and a full hollow needs a narrow wedge unless you want the blade to sit deep. Personally, I don't like my full hollows to sit really deep (because I prefer narrower scales like vintage razors), so I often start my full hollows with a 1/16 piece of stock. My heavy grind blades usually start with 1/8 stock. But there is variation based on scale shape and such.

Thanks all. It helps a ton. A bunch of my restore razors have REALLY bad looking scales. One Wosty actually had bolts(and not good looking ones) So I'm working and learning to use exotic wood, G10 and bone/horn. It's great fun (except when you buy 3/8" G10... oops). I've never made a wedge yet and I wanted to draw from everyone's experience.

Paul