Using tape in a pivot hole

I have some larger than 1/16" and unusually shaped pivot holes in a couple restores I am presently tackling. I have read the method of filling and re-drilling the pivot, but without a drill press it means one more angle that could be wrong and cause an uncentered close.

My idea is to use electrical tape (hopefully just a few layers) around the pin to take up the little bit of slack. The only issues I can think of are the tape coming slightly undone and causing the opening/closing to be gummed up or maybe the tape compressing and the pivot becoming loose soon after pinning.

Written opinions welcomed in addition to the poll votes.

the better way is to sleeve it, make sure to leave some slack to account for pivot hole punched askew.
If the pivot hole is punched askew, you can fix it first by redrilling it with a diamond bit and a dremel (takes a bit longer but works) then sleeve it.

I would not use tape.

Here's the most recent thread (I think) on the subject: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ized-hole.html

I would copy/paste my post from there, but you can read it in the other thread. In short, just pin them normally.

I don't even understand what you are saying you want to do. Tape around the hole? Wouldn't that increase the thickness in the area an make scaling rather unwieldy? And if the tape comes loose, you'll be back to the same looseness + you'll have tape residue making things sticky and sucking up dirt and dust like a magnet. Or the tape could dry out and just plain fall off.

Of course I'm curious what will happen; I like a good experiment as much as the next guy, but I don't understand how this could work or why it would be necessary. But, as I said, I don't really understand what you are planning on doing.

Just like I pointed out in the other thread:
It depends on the actual rescale.. When many of us custom rescale now, we tend to do so with tighter tolerances then they used in the old days, and even now-a-days ie: TI and their 1/4 inch gap between razor and wedge... So that pin slop can become a problem depending on how tight you want the Custom Rescale to be... It takes less time to sleeve the pin, then it took to type this out, and costs about 1 penny to do,,, so to me it is a moot point, I just sleeve them if it fits.

I would use a Brass sleeve if you are going to sleeve at all...

My rule of thumb though is if it isn't oversize enough to fit a 1/8 inch brass sleeve then I don't bother :) that little bit of slop is acceptable in my book

IF you really feel you must deal with an oversized pivot hole this way, there is a self-adhesive copper foil tape on the market in various widths, for people who make reproduction Tiffany lampshades by making a foldover frame on the edges of the stained glass panels, and then using soft solder to at once stick the panes together, and imitate leaded panes. You should stick it temporarily to something non-greasy which will remove as little as possible of the adhesive, cut a strip the right width with a modelling knife.

But I think using a brass bushing, or a pin with an oversized middle, is a far better way to go.

@ holli: tape would go around the pin, in essence, sleeving the 1/16th brass pin with electric tape.

I actually already bought brass tubes with an ID of 1/16th and an OD of approximately 3/32ths, these are still leaving quite a gap. I guess I'll epoxy and drill a hole and just keep redoing it until I get the new hole nearly perfect. I would hate to widen the hole on the razor with a diamond bit, especially without the proper equipment to ensure it's true the first time.

Epoxy the brass tube in there ???? haven't tried it myself but that might work :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TwistedOak

@ holli: tape would go around the pin, in essence, sleeving the 1/16th brass pin with electric tape.

I actually already bought brass tubes with an ID of 1/16th and an OD of approximately 3/32ths, these are still leaving quite a gap. I guess I'll epoxy and drill a hole and just keep redoing it until I get the new hole nearly perfect. I would hate to widen the hole on the razor with a diamond bit, especially without the proper equipment to ensure it's true the first time.

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you do not have to redrill just make it a bit larger so there is slight slack and you should be set.

Alright, thanks for the opinions guys, I know I will proceed.

I too prefer brass tube as a sleeve. Electrical tape seems like a poor fix. If I was in a very limited tool situation, i might do the following

Put some tape on one side of pivot. Set the blade on a sheet of cardboard, tape side down. Poke a vasaline coated toothpick square and center of the ovaled hole all the way to the cardboard to anchor the pick straight up. Pour mixed jb weld/epoxy in the hole. Before postion of toothpick, verify/sand to correct diameter. When dry, suspect toothpick will slide out, otherwise it will drill easy. kind of a cludgy repair still, but more of a perment fix.

I use aluminum rivet bodies pounded into the holes, ground down and polished even with the tang. you can use any drill with a 1/16 bit to drill through it easily as straight as you can. Hold the blade tang up with the bit thru the hole and see how straight the hole looks. Get the bit and saw back and forth until you get even wobble in all directions. A hand held tip drill helps! Your scales will dictate the rest. All pin holes in blades should be oversized IMO, at least to some degree. You can do the same with a lead fishing weight, split shot, or lead round bb/pellet gun shot. It does not need to be fancy, just something to take up some space in primarily Sheffield blades which were cast in and are often way to big and deformed when made. Not necessarily worn that way! Good luck!