View Poll Results: should I try it?

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Thread: Using tape in a pivot hole

  1. #1
    the deepest roots TwistedOak's Avatar
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    Question Using tape in a pivot hole

    I have some larger than 1/16" and unusually shaped pivot holes in a couple restores I am presently tackling. I have read the method of filling and re-drilling the pivot, but without a drill press it means one more angle that could be wrong and cause an uncentered close.

    My idea is to use electrical tape (hopefully just a few layers) around the pin to take up the little bit of slack. The only issues I can think of are the tape coming slightly undone and causing the opening/closing to be gummed up or maybe the tape compressing and the pivot becoming loose soon after pinning.

    Written opinions welcomed in addition to the poll votes.

  2. #2
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    the better way is to sleeve it, make sure to leave some slack to account for pivot hole punched askew.
    If the pivot hole is punched askew, you can fix it first by redrilling it with a diamond bit and a dremel (takes a bit longer but works) then sleeve it.

    I would not use tape.
    Last edited by mainaman; 06-24-2011 at 05:34 PM.
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    Stefan

  3. #3
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    Here's the most recent thread (I think) on the subject: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ized-hole.html

    I would copy/paste my post from there, but you can read it in the other thread. In short, just pin them normally.

    I don't even understand what you are saying you want to do. Tape around the hole? Wouldn't that increase the thickness in the area an make scaling rather unwieldy? And if the tape comes loose, you'll be back to the same looseness + you'll have tape residue making things sticky and sucking up dirt and dust like a magnet. Or the tape could dry out and just plain fall off.

    Of course I'm curious what will happen; I like a good experiment as much as the next guy, but I don't understand how this could work or why it would be necessary. But, as I said, I don't really understand what you are planning on doing.
    Last edited by holli4pirating; 06-24-2011 at 05:01 PM.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Just like I pointed out in the other thread:
    It depends on the actual rescale.. When many of us custom rescale now, we tend to do so with tighter tolerances then they used in the old days, and even now-a-days ie: TI and their 1/4 inch gap between razor and wedge... So that pin slop can become a problem depending on how tight you want the Custom Rescale to be... It takes less time to sleeve the pin, then it took to type this out, and costs about 1 penny to do,,, so to me it is a moot point, I just sleeve them if it fits.

    I would use a Brass sleeve if you are going to sleeve at all...

    My rule of thumb though is if it isn't oversize enough to fit a 1/8 inch brass sleeve then I don't bother that little bit of slop is acceptable in my book
    Last edited by gssixgun; 06-24-2011 at 06:02 PM.

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    Senior Member Caledonian's Avatar
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    IF you really feel you must deal with an oversized pivot hole this way, there is a self-adhesive copper foil tape on the market in various widths, for people who make reproduction Tiffany lampshades by making a foldover frame on the edges of the stained glass panels, and then using soft solder to at once stick the panes together, and imitate leaded panes. You should stick it temporarily to something non-greasy which will remove as little as possible of the adhesive, cut a strip the right width with a modelling knife.

    But I think using a brass bushing, or a pin with an oversized middle, is a far better way to go.

  6. #6
    the deepest roots TwistedOak's Avatar
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    @ holli: tape would go around the pin, in essence, sleeving the 1/16th brass pin with electric tape.

    I actually already bought brass tubes with an ID of 1/16th and an OD of approximately 3/32ths, these are still leaving quite a gap. I guess I'll epoxy and drill a hole and just keep redoing it until I get the new hole nearly perfect. I would hate to widen the hole on the razor with a diamond bit, especially without the proper equipment to ensure it's true the first time.

  7. #7
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Epoxy the brass tube in there ???? haven't tried it myself but that might work

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwistedOak View Post
    @ holli: tape would go around the pin, in essence, sleeving the 1/16th brass pin with electric tape.

    I actually already bought brass tubes with an ID of 1/16th and an OD of approximately 3/32ths, these are still leaving quite a gap. I guess I'll epoxy and drill a hole and just keep redoing it until I get the new hole nearly perfect. I would hate to widen the hole on the razor with a diamond bit, especially without the proper equipment to ensure it's true the first time.
    you do not have to redrill just make it a bit larger so there is slight slack and you should be set.
    Stefan

  9. #9
    the deepest roots TwistedOak's Avatar
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    Alright, thanks for the opinions guys, I know I will proceed.

  10. #10
    Senior Member dirtychrome's Avatar
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    I too prefer brass tube as a sleeve. Electrical tape seems like a poor fix. If I was in a very limited tool situation, i might do the following

    Put some tape on one side of pivot. Set the blade on a sheet of cardboard, tape side down. Poke a vasaline coated toothpick square and center of the ovaled hole all the way to the cardboard to anchor the pick straight up. Pour mixed jb weld/epoxy in the hole. Before postion of toothpick, verify/sand to correct diameter. When dry, suspect toothpick will slide out, otherwise it will drill easy. kind of a cludgy repair still, but more of a perment fix.
    Last edited by dirtychrome; 06-25-2011 at 01:27 AM.

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