View Poll Results: should I try it?

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  • Yes, I want to see how it will turn out.

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  • No, stop trying to half ass it.

    8 88.89%
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Thread: Using tape in a pivot hole

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TwistedOak Using tape in a pivot hole 06-24-2011, 04:50 PM
mainaman the better way is to sleeve... 06-24-2011, 04:55 PM
holli4pirating Here's the most recent thread... 06-24-2011, 04:58 PM
gssixgun Just like I pointed out in... 06-24-2011, 05:59 PM
Caledonian IF you really feel you must... 06-24-2011, 06:08 PM
TwistedOak @ holli: tape would go around... 06-24-2011, 08:53 PM
gssixgun Epoxy the brass tube in there... 06-24-2011, 09:30 PM
mainaman you do not have to redrill... 06-24-2011, 10:23 PM
TwistedOak Alright, thanks for the... 06-24-2011, 11:56 PM
dirtychrome I too prefer brass tube as a... 06-25-2011, 01:25 AM
sharptonn I use aluminum rivet bodies... 06-25-2011, 02:08 AM
  1. #1
    the deepest roots TwistedOak's Avatar
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    @ holli: tape would go around the pin, in essence, sleeving the 1/16th brass pin with electric tape.

    I actually already bought brass tubes with an ID of 1/16th and an OD of approximately 3/32ths, these are still leaving quite a gap. I guess I'll epoxy and drill a hole and just keep redoing it until I get the new hole nearly perfect. I would hate to widen the hole on the razor with a diamond bit, especially without the proper equipment to ensure it's true the first time.

  2. #2
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Epoxy the brass tube in there ???? haven't tried it myself but that might work

  3. #3
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwistedOak View Post
    @ holli: tape would go around the pin, in essence, sleeving the 1/16th brass pin with electric tape.

    I actually already bought brass tubes with an ID of 1/16th and an OD of approximately 3/32ths, these are still leaving quite a gap. I guess I'll epoxy and drill a hole and just keep redoing it until I get the new hole nearly perfect. I would hate to widen the hole on the razor with a diamond bit, especially without the proper equipment to ensure it's true the first time.
    you do not have to redrill just make it a bit larger so there is slight slack and you should be set.
    Stefan

  4. #4
    the deepest roots TwistedOak's Avatar
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    Alright, thanks for the opinions guys, I know I will proceed.

  5. #5
    Senior Member dirtychrome's Avatar
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    I too prefer brass tube as a sleeve. Electrical tape seems like a poor fix. If I was in a very limited tool situation, i might do the following

    Put some tape on one side of pivot. Set the blade on a sheet of cardboard, tape side down. Poke a vasaline coated toothpick square and center of the ovaled hole all the way to the cardboard to anchor the pick straight up. Pour mixed jb weld/epoxy in the hole. Before postion of toothpick, verify/sand to correct diameter. When dry, suspect toothpick will slide out, otherwise it will drill easy. kind of a cludgy repair still, but more of a perment fix.
    Last edited by dirtychrome; 06-25-2011 at 01:27 AM.

  6. #6
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I use aluminum rivet bodies pounded into the holes, ground down and polished even with the tang. you can use any drill with a 1/16 bit to drill through it easily as straight as you can. Hold the blade tang up with the bit thru the hole and see how straight the hole looks. Get the bit and saw back and forth until you get even wobble in all directions. A hand held tip drill helps! Your scales will dictate the rest. All pin holes in blades should be oversized IMO, at least to some degree. You can do the same with a lead fishing weight, split shot, or lead round bb/pellet gun shot. It does not need to be fancy, just something to take up some space in primarily Sheffield blades which were cast in and are often way to big and deformed when made. Not necessarily worn that way! Good luck!
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

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