Quote Originally Posted by dirtychrome View Post
Pour it on. I measure the weight of my cup, add approx 25grams part A, then the 44% weight of A as the part B measurement. Make sure you cover to the edges, or drag (with toothpick or similar) liquid over dry areas after the pour. Sands easy. Many people do not sand at all. If no bubbles, you will have a smooth clear finish.

I find The edges not to be as thin as I prefer, so after dry I wet sand starting at 1000 to 2000, then micromesh and hand polish. Don't take to the buffers, mops and wheels seems to leave some sort of scoring.

I mix in little clear plastic cocktail glasses and a bamboo skewer. You may have some bubbles from mixing. I try to make sure fine bubbles are pushed to edges, or push together to create large bubbles. larger bubbles will pop, and not stay in the clear. But if pop at surface as curing, when dry, you'll have a little pock mark. Try to work out bubbles on first 15min. Can be worked for about 40min, but earlier is better.

Few days ago, someone shared a link of a technique I will be trying later this week. Put the liquid in a small ziplock bag, remove all air and knead it in the ziplock. Appears might be a neat trick to reduce bubbles.
This is a thread with some really good information in it. I used clear pouring resin, usually meant for embedding objects as paperweights etc., to take a mould from a Japanese tsuba sword guard, and reproduce it with copper clay as used by jewellers. (the stuff actually fires into pure copper, with no noticeable porosity, and silver is also available.) I found that I could suck out any visible bubbles with a hypodermic syringe and needle, with the least possible effect if the resin was just beginning to harden, and a matchstick would leave a dimple. The needle may not be reusable if you suck in any resin, as solvents such as acetone may soften and jam the syringe piston. But the syringe should be, if you just throw away the needle.