Thread: C.F. Wolfertz Restoration Questions...and Advice Needed

Pauly:

1. Any pitting was minimal and I'm pretty sure I got it all out. There were two small rust spots...one on the spine and one of the edge of the razor but not anywhere near the blade...maybe 3/4 of the way up toward the spine. I removed the red rust and smooth out the blade, but there are still dark shadows in those spots which I assume is darker rust. It's a cosmetic thing, and frankly I just want a razor that shaves. If I want a nice shiny one I'll just buy a new one.

2. I was pretty sure that was the case...but you know what happens when one assumes.

3. The Brasso's I used got a ton of dirt out of the pivot. That stuff worked miracles for my razor.

As far as polishing goes, you dont need a mirror shine, but you do want to get to a fairly fine grit, maybe 400-600 or so. I'd think anything less would rust really easily.

I have one of those Wolfertz and they're very good. I like mine alot.

I used metal finishing sandpaper to get the dirt and rust off. I followed it up with successions of 00, 000 and 0000 steel wool. I didn't have the catching issues that most people have, but I've been using fine steel wool for a while when cleaning guitars. I don't know the grit equivalents but I've read it could be anywhere from 800-1200 on the 0000 wool. The blade is extremely smooth to the touch, especially after the rounds of metal polish I used.

It'd be cool to see a before pic, a after you pic, and an after the pro restorer pic... :-)

Originally Posted by U2Bono269

Pauly:

1. Any pitting was minimal and I'm pretty sure I got it all out. There were two small rust spots...one on the spine and one of the edge of the razor but not anywhere near the blade...maybe 3/4 of the way up toward the spine. I removed the red rust and smooth out the blade, but there are still dark shadows in those spots which I assume is darker rust. It's a cosmetic thing, and frankly I just want a razor that shaves. If I want a nice shiny one I'll just buy a new one.

The dark shadow is pitting. It is where the rust has eaten away into the steel of the razor and is below the plane of the surface of the rest of the razor.

To remove all the pitting you have to remove steel back to the level of the deepest pits to get a mirror finish. The pitting is also where rust in the future may attack the razor.

Many of my razors I haven't removed all the pitting because there comes a point where you have to decide between many man hours with sandpaper or keeping something that is functional and looks good without being pristine. On full hollow ground razors I get nervous because there isn't a lot of metal to begin with.

I didn't feel the need to remove all the pitting. I don't want to put the time, effort or money into it because I don't really need to. It won't effect how it shaves so who cares?

I'm looking at this as my beginner's razor. Once I really get the hang of it I want to pick up a dovo or thiers-issard because I really like them. One day I hope to send the wolfertz to a pro for a true restoration, with full pitting removal and new ebony scales (i hate the bakelite).

What type of grind is the razor? Removing pitting on hollow ground razors isn't always a reality, too much grinding and you compromise the integrity of the blade or even grind a hole through it.

it's a hollow grind. pretty sure it's full hollow. I have no point of reference except for some diagrams I saw on the internet. the pitting is on the thicker parts of the metal but I imagine that in order to maintain the stability of the blade it needs those thick metal areas for strength. like I said, I'm happy with it as it is.