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Thread: Re-Pinning Equipment Help

  1. #1
    Junior Member ThrownClear's Avatar
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    Default Re-Pinning Equipment Help

    Hey all,

    I've searched and read as much as I could, but now I have to break down and ask a direct question that I'm sure you've answered before.

    So - I'm almost ready to re-pin a couple of razors. I have a little jeweler's block and peaning hammer (thanks for the recommendation, gssixgun), I have rod-stock and washers on the way to me (from ebay seller straightrazorsmith). I still need something to cut the rod stock with (I guess I'll pick up some flush-cutters) and a file (any recommendation on what kind of file(s) I need?).

    The biggest question I have is about the jeweler's block. I've seen several pictures and heard the recommendations for the "divots." What size and how deep? I frequently see more than one in the anvils, and of different sizes.

    The Jeweler's block is 7/8 inches thick, and I was going to drill into it 3/4" to hold the rod stock. Should I use a 5/64 bit, or will a 1/16" hole be big enough to hold the stock?

    I work at a pharmaceutical company, and the maintenance guys have some pretty nifty and exact cutting and drilling equipment back there - they're looking forward to helping me - so please feel free to be as precise as you want. That covers it, thank you!

  2. #2
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Drill a 5/64 in hole down through the block, drill another down to 13/16... These can go toward the center

    Three divots, use a 5/64, use a 3/32, and use a 1/8 drill bit, they are just divots not holes... I would put them 1/2 inch in from 3 of the corners leave the 4th corner for peening pretty

    This is just what works for me, you might re-adjust later... Most of us do so do all this on one side of the block so you have a completely clean block on the other side except the through n through hole to re-adjust later if wanted ...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 10-13-2011 at 10:58 PM.

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    ThrownClear (10-16-2011)

  4. #3
    Senior Member adbuett's Avatar
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    Files: for me the bastard cut is a little too coarse when working with brass, so I suggest either a 'second cut' or 'smooth' file, both of which are finer cutters than the bastard. I also find that a small hobby file is nice for taking off a little rod length when the pin is being mocked up in the razor. If you're going to be filing with the rod in the pin holes I would suggest taking a look at this thread:http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...unpinning.html. Good luck, and lets see some finished razors!

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    ThrownClear (10-16-2011)

  6. #4
    Junior Member ThrownClear's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice, guys. That's exactly what I needed to know. The boys in back are looking forward to helping me out - they have even offered to drill the original pins out, but some things a man just has to do for himself.
    Havachat45 likes this.

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    Senior Member Mcbladescar's Avatar
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    Hey Glen:
    Can you post a pic of your block? Forgive my ignorance but why the deeper holes?
    I've just been using the cheek of my hammer as a block so i'd be interested to see anything to simplify the process.
    Thanks!
    Mike

  8. #6
    Junior Member ThrownClear's Avatar
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    Mike,

    I'd be interested in seeing a photo as well, but I'm pretty sure the deeper holes are there for actually holding the rod stock steady for the initial peaning / cutting. I think Glen mostly uses a vice now, but as I'm vice-less, the jeweler's-block hole seems like a good idea.

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    Mcbladescar (10-17-2011)

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