Thread: Using a dremel

If I am to use my dremel tool during restoration, which steps should I use it for and which bits would you suggest.

I have no power tools and there are few grits of sandpaper to be had in my area.

Thanks.

Jon

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Raith, I have been down this road. You cannot do it all with a dremel alone. The least I have managed to put at least a semi good restore was some 220 grit, some 400 grit, some 600 grit sandpaper. Then using my dremel, I purchased a 'steel polishing' kit for it from Sears. It's for the craftsman version of the dremel, but everything works at a cheaper price. I then purchased several different polishing compounds for polishing steel, the black, brown, green and red. They claim that the green is all that is needed, but I've had best results with all 4. The red is the basic rouge that comes in the polishing kit. Use a different buffing wheel for each compound. Make yourself a work surface or jig where you can always have full control of the blade while polishing it, or you may find the razor embedded in something you didn't intend it to be in. Been there, done that.

Using the dremel is a major cause of blade damage. Know that right up front. I have personally damaged 3 blades, and completely ruined another 2. It happens easiest with the dremel.

That's what I know from experience. Your mileage may vary of course, but I don't believe anyone here would advocate using a dremel to perform a restore. There are other, less damaging ways. Sandpaper can be had over the internet cheap.

Good luck!!!

Mike

In reality,these blades are very delicate items,your hands are the best tools god ever created.
Learn to use them,Fine resto work or for that matter fine metal work is always best finished by hand,JMO.

Dremel = Straight Razor Tool of Death.

Originally Posted by Raithskar

I have no power tools and there are few grits of sandpaper to be had in my area.

A quick Google of your area (Tyler, TX) shows three Walmart supercenters and at least ten auto parts stores. You can find wet/dry sandpaper in the automotive section at Walmart and in the body repair aisles at most auto parts stores. Good hunting.

Regards - Walt

Yes. The sandpaper is readily available. Highest grit I can find is 1500. Does it have to be aluminum oxide sandpaper? Or will regular work. The range of grits listed in the sticky is not available. Guess I will start with a 120 and progress the best I can from there.

Thanks for the replies!

Jon

Walmart usually carries grits up to 2000 in the 3-M "Wetordry" brand. It is in the automotive section and not in home repair. Advance Auto and other parts stores carry most grits up to 2000 in 3-M also.

Regards - Walt

I went and got some sandpaper at a local auto parts store. I got 180, 320, 600, 1500 & 2000. I had to skip some as they were in the larger packaging, and budget only allows so much at the moment.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Jon

I agree the hand method is the best, any kind of power tools including buffers can heat the metal in a fraction of a second and loose the temper, I set up a complete shop witch I use for other things but for razors I use emery cloth coarse , medium, and fine in progression with cutting oil. I cut several pieces of 1/2" and 3/4" pvc in about 3" lengths' and glue it around the pvc making a seam like you would wall paper. I also glue the emery to popsicle sticks for the flats. I use seal all glue. I then run down the down the side of the blade. It fits the concave part of the blade and straightens the spine and will remove rust , pits, and actually regrind the razor. On a really rough razor I start with the coarse and work my way down to fine, If your razor has etching you may loose it, if it is very bad. Usually if they have engraving it will not effect it if there is not heavy pitting. I also use a half round DMT diamond stone if they are not to bad. I finish with crocus cloth for the polishing.Will bring them to a mirror shine. silicon oxide wet or dry sand paper will work to, but I find using emery cloth the best and fastest. I would start out with a razor that is plain other than the name on the tang. I never sand out the marking on the tang. I started out with junk razors till I got the feel of it, after you do a couple of them you will know what you can do and what you can't. Emery cloth with oil is a fast cutter and lasts for a long time. I don't think you can beat crocus cloth for polishing followed by a good metal polish. I also use a soulution of half lemon juice and baking soda in tupperware and let them soak if they are not to bad, it will remove rust, staining, and corrosion, but not pitting. this process works for me and really pretty fast.

DO it by hand you will get a better finish. Maybe not as shinny but you will be able to keep your lines and corners a lot cleaner and crisper.

I would work down to about 600 - 800 with regular SIC autobody paper. Once I have a blade or a gun to that point I start using the finishing paepr I get from Knife and Gun Finishing (link below). The paper is micro graded like high grade jewelers paper but without the jewelers paper cost. I used to use micromesh but switched to this because of the price. Micromesh is about $30 for an 8x10 sheet this stuff is $1.25 per sheet and the finish is comparable.
POLISH SHT 1 MIC PG

I work all the down to the pale green K&G paper which is 8000 mesh. I'm not sure what that relates to in normal paper grit scale but I would say its about 3000 -4000 grit. You can barley tell it has any abrasive its so fine.

Then I hand rub it with semichrome polish paste. Flitz is a very similar product. K&G carry those as well. I usually stop here because this leaves a very nice luster finish that glows without being gaudy and over polished. If a customer wants a polished finish I will use a rag impregnated with polishing rouge or buffing compound and hand rub it on down from there. I did the Henkels in the thread below with this method.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...t-clothes.html

Hope it helps
Ray