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Thread: Fix for cracked scales?
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12-08-2011, 05:07 PM #11
Here's a couple pics of the razor. Before shots I suppose.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ducksfan For This Useful Post:
SirStropalot (12-08-2011)
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12-08-2011, 05:10 PM #12
And here's what I bought to fix the crack. The brass sheet is .010 (not sure of the measurement, but really thin) thick. And the glue was recommended by the hobby store staff. Total investment? About $7.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ducksfan For This Useful Post:
SirStropalot (12-08-2011)
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12-08-2011, 07:15 PM #13
Not a bad investment. Sometime do a little research on the prices of Bismarck razors.....they are not cheap. Get that one honed after you make the repair, she should give you a real fine shave.
"If You Knew Half of What I Forgot You Would Be An Idiot" - by DoughBoy68
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12-08-2011, 07:59 PM #14
Thanks for the info DoughBoy. Needs a little TLC and a little honing, but it should be good after that.
I bought a razor off of eBay and the seller included this one for free. The money spent so far is on the fix-r-uppper supplies.
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12-10-2011, 01:41 AM #15
And the moment you've all been waiting for... It's nothing to write home about, or post on a forum for that matter, but I said I would. So there.
The tear down: it came apart no problems, thanks to the X in the pin/ drill it out method (I forget who posted that one, but it helped keep the bit from slipping). There was heavy rust between the pivot washers and the tang, so more work had to go into the blade than I initially thought. You'll see some of the remaining pitting in one of the pics. Didn't want to go too deep though, as this was my first attempt of the sort.
Scale repair: I tried the acetone idea, but no luck. No reaction. Maybe I had some weak stuff, wife's fingernail polish remover. I went with a glue and brace approach. the brace worked well, the glue? Not as seamless as I hoped. Still, my goal was to get a razor in shaving condition, and I think it will hold. (fingers crossed)
The blade: Mothers polish cleaned up the blade with some elbow grease, the rust was tackled with a dry sanding progression, then wet sanding with the finer grits. Mothers polish to finish the off too.
Yet to do: re-pin, hone, and shave. I'll probably end up getting a light colored wood in the future and make new scales altogether.
Lessons learned: depending on your goal with a razor, fix it how you want to fix it. I know it looks ugly, but I'm satisfied with it.
Now, what can I do to make sure rust doesn't occur around the pivot again?
Can you tell what kind of phone I have?
And no, I don't condone smoking. It's what I had handy to show a reflection.
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12-10-2011, 01:47 AM #16
Oh, I did sand the excess glue down, you can't feel the crack, but you sure can see it!
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12-10-2011, 04:38 AM #17
Good job! The Red Point I have to repair has bolsters on the ends and fortunately will hide the crack when repaired. Is the .010 brass strong enough? You may already be aware of this video, but here is the link to a re-pinning video tutorial. Congratulations on the repair. Regards, Howard
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml#post875983
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12-10-2011, 11:08 AM #18
- Join Date
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Thanked: 275Now, what can I do to make sure rust doesn't occur around the pivot again?
2. After you use it, dry the pivot area with a tissue. Put a drop of mineral oil into the pivot area occasionally, and remove the excess with a tissue.
That's worked for me, so far.
Charles
PS -- I use an anti-rust penetrating oil called "Corrosion Block", but mineral oil is the "lowest-common-denominator" stuff. Gun oil will also be fine.
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12-10-2011, 01:51 PM #19
Take a look at this. It comes in several sizes and there are other products in their inventory also. Just click the links bar toward the upper left. I just received mine yesterday. You'll also find some restoration supplies including a pin set. Howard
Straight Razor Maintenance & Repair NeedsLast edited by SirStropalot; 12-10-2011 at 03:10 PM.
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12-10-2011, 03:30 PM #20
Should I use this as I'm putting it back together? Is it a one time application?
Thanks for the video, that'll definitely help! The brass seems like it's thick enough, did some flex tests and it seems pretty rigid while allowing a little bend. Looks like its a hair thicker than the outside washers.Last edited by Ducksfan; 12-10-2011 at 03:43 PM.