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12-28-2011, 11:05 AM #1
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Thanked: 8Old english razor - scale restoring
Hello!
I just aquired an fredrik reynolds old english razor with yellow bone scales.
I purchased some neatsfoot-oil and sanded the scales and soaked them. However, there apper to be some dirt lodged in the cracks witch the neatsfootoil is suppose to seal.
Is there a neat trick to get this dirt out or do i need to sand it down a bit and learn to live with the dirt thats left deeper in the scales?
It dosn't really show in this pic but all the more brown looking areas are cracks filled with dirt..
Any help would be greatley appreciated.
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12-28-2011, 05:42 PM #2
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Thanked: 13245Neatsfoot oil works very well at reconditioning these old horn scales, it is a rejuvenating process, -BUT- it is not a good cleaner or "sealer"
I clean, then sand @320 then leave the scales in a "Baggie" with about 1 tablespoon of oil (marinate ) overnight if possible, then sand @ 400 then wipe down with Neatsfoot again and do a final buff...
To get into the cracks try using a dental pick or someting like one, these cracks also need to be sealed, I would use a clear epoxy if it were mine, but that should be done before you did any Neatsfoot soaking...
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
virreslirre (12-28-2011)
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12-28-2011, 05:52 PM #3
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Thanked: 8ok
Thank you for the tip! I already sanded them and cleaned them. The thing is that it is really thin cracks. I would not be able to get in there whith a toothpick or anything like that. Maybe a superthin steelwire but that is it. Its like its been cracked by time and then left to soak in dirty water or something similar.. So, today i brought them up from the soaking. sanded to 1000 grit. pinned them and but them back into soaking. i was not able to get even a remotley shiny surface with 1000 grit. so i tried to buff them with some maas first. didnt work out at all. all i got was burn-marks on the scales. then i tried renaissance-wax. didnt do much either, no damage though. Then i used neatsfoot-oil on the buffing-wheel. that gave a nice shine. but nowhere near as nice that im expecting. Do i need higher grit? like a micromesh or something like that?
Is it ok to leave the blade in the neatsfoot oil overnight? I get the feeling, when touching the scales, that they are still really fry and needs more oil..
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12-28-2011, 06:00 PM #4
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Thanked: 8ive done a few restores by now. all turned out great in my humble opinion, good enough for me and great shaving. But this horn-thing. It seem like a whole different ballpark. all the scrathes from sanding is so evident and the smell is really disturbing. what do you guys use to make the sparkle?
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12-28-2011, 06:45 PM #5
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Thanked: 13245Here are a couple of old Horn scales I did recently
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-patience.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...e-restore.html
I rarely if ever use lower then 220 grit on old horn, and rarely go higher then 400 grit for reconditioning, when I go to the buffer I use a 1725 RPM 6 inch buff mop with Plastic polish, then a final two applications of RenWax by hand...
When I make new Horn scales I use micromesh up to 12000 grit and water sand them...
Hopefully that helps, keep in mind the old Honey Horn like you are doing are near impossible to get perfect again
Also make sure you are using a respirator when sanding and buffing on these...
ps: you might try 400 grit with the Neatsfoot oil and see if that gets a nice finish to buff out...Last edited by gssixgun; 12-29-2011 at 06:34 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
virreslirre (12-30-2011)
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12-29-2011, 05:33 PM #6
I will defer to Glen, but on these scales I used 400-800-1000-1500-2000-4000-8000-12000 "wet sanding" with neetsfoot oil.
Start:
Finish:
Of course, these are black. I don't know how well honey horn polishes up.
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The Following User Says Thank You to medicevans For This Useful Post:
virreslirre (12-30-2011)
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12-29-2011, 06:35 PM #7
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Thanked: 13245That came out beautiful
BTW I am in agreement if you don't have a buffer that progression with the Micromesh or the 3m polishing paper which is much cheaper is the way to roll
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/produc...cat=820&page=1Last edited by gssixgun; 12-29-2011 at 06:38 PM.
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12-29-2011, 07:35 PM #8
Thanks Glen. Just for the OPs further edification, that progression was on 3m sandpaper (from Autozone) up through 2000, then on high grit paper from Hobby Lobby. Wet sanding all the way with neetsfoot oil. If I had to do it again I'd have used micromesh and domed washers rather than stacked.
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12-30-2011, 10:07 AM #9
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Thanked: 8Thank you for the help!
They are "done" now and they look ok. at least in my book. They seem supersensitive to even mild heat so i will have to handsand with neatsfoot the rest of the way like you recommended. Ill post a pic later today so you can see the result. Wouldnt have gotten this far without your help, thank you again!
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12-31-2011, 01:15 PM #10