Blue?

**C utz** · 10-11-2006, 02:29 PM

What is your take on blueing a razor? Seems like it might be easy enough to do. I see Dovo has a razor with a darkend tang/spine.

Why do we not see it as much, and what about the black coating that is on knives (tactical knives), can this be applied to the tanng/spine of razors??

C utz

**mparker762** · 10-11-2006, 02:38 PM

I had a razor once that had been blued, and it looked to have been a factory job since it had "blue" stamped on the shank. Looked cool.

I've got a favorite inexpensive razor that I've been thinking about getting phosphated and painted the way Wilson does their tuff-coat, it's a very sturdy combination that would pretty much eliminate worries about rusting, only the honed patches at the spine and bevel would be exposed and those would be protected by the oil they pick up off the strop.

**DMS** · 10-11-2006, 03:05 PM

Originally Posted by mparker762

I had a razor once that had been blued, and it looked to have been a factory job since it had "blue" stamped on the shank. Looked cool.

I've got a favorite inexpensive razor that I've been thinking about getting phosphated and painted the way Wilson does their tuff-coat, it's a very sturdy combination that would pretty much eliminate worries about rusting, only the honed patches at the spine and bevel would be exposed and those would be protected by the oil they pick up off the strop.

"Parkerized"?

Someone had to say it!
Dave

**azjoe** · 10-11-2006, 03:15 PM

Originally Posted by C utz

What is your take on bluing a razor?

I'm no expert on "bluing", but my understanding is that there are several process which all essentially form an oxide coating that affords minimal rust protection. Some of the processes require heat, some don't. Mostly it just looks nice and stops (shiny) reflections that might interfere with sighting a rifle, for example. If I were going to go to the trouble of unpinning my blade so I could clean it well enough to blue the tang I'd rather plate it with a (nearly) non-reactive metal instead... nickel-silver or gold. But no matter what you do, since you have moving parts (eg, the blade around the hinge pin, the blade against the scales, etc.) the coating will eventually be breached and rust will begin to form again (fortunately most of us won't live long enough for that to become a serious problem, lol).

**tombuesing** · 10-11-2006, 04:28 PM

I've used Oxpho-Blue and 44/40 Blue from Brownells (www.brownells.com). These are both available in a cream, so they're easy to use. They are a cold-blue process - simply rub on and rub off. Adding additional coats deepens the blue. It will not work on stainless steel. They cost about $10 each.

Tom

**urleebird** · 10-11-2006, 04:45 PM

Can't stay...bye bye, now...

**ForestryProf** · 10-11-2006, 08:05 PM

Originally Posted by urleebird

Chris... I thought you had my restoration CD. Why aren't you reading it?

Bill,
You should realize that for some, your CD is considered a collectable and so they are keeping it in pristine condition. The first time it's placed in a computer, it loses some of its value...

**C utz** · 10-12-2006, 02:47 AM

LOL!

I do have it. I have the older one.
I looked at it a while back, but have not had the time to check it out lately. I'll take that as a 'kind hint' to check it out

BUT, being lazy, I tend to ask before trying to find it myself...(sigh)...alright, I'll watch the CD and find the info myself.

Sheesh!

C utz

**urleebird** · 10-12-2006, 03:42 AM

Can't stay...bye bye, now...

**Aussie** · 10-12-2006, 04:01 AM

Quick Cutz, order the NEW CD before Bill explodes

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