Thread: My first restoration

Well I finaly started restoring my first razor it was given to me by my barber since they can no longer be used here in Goodyear AZ. The tip was broken as you can see in the center photo, so I cut about an inch off now it's an inch shorter, also the handle was broken. So I used 1/4inch Plexi which I wanted a lttle thicker handles, I jewelled the tang like the Double Duck putting on the nice swirls, but I forgot to take previous photos before I started. Any way here is what I have so far. Its not axactly completed but FiReSTaRT wanted me to post what I had. So what do you think so far?
Oh by the way I couldn't have done it with out the colaboration of all of you Honemeister's and your posts and privet e-mails, I thank you all for helping you are all to be commended.

I forgot to mention I made a template for the scales using Adobe illustrator since Im a Graphic designer then I had Lasermec https://lasermec.com cut the plexi with a lazer then I beveled the edge with a file and used sandpaper from 320-800 grit then Maas Polish. If you decide to use Lasermec tell them Damon sent you,- they can also personalize your scales and engrave them with designs or name. Draw an outline of your scales and send it via fax, or jpeg in an email to them ask for Jim .

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The Jeweling and handles look simply great!

Now, may I ask how a person does Jeweling? Do you have a link for that?

Thanks a bunch!

To do the jewelling is very simple you use rubber impregnated dremel tips http://www.cratex.com/rubpoint.htm To order: Specify Part No. and Grit Texture, C,M,F OR XF. Example: 4-C and 4-M and 4-F. I suggest to get a few of each grit as some metals are harder than others.

The way its done is to place a number 4 corse or medium Cratex Shaped point on a mandrel, I use a #1 or #6 mandrel then use a medium speed on the dremmel and place the piont on the tang starting near top and working to the bottom alternating on each row like this.
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Brownells used to sell small wire brushes and various grades of Clover brand lapping compound for jewelling too. They work very well and I imagine they still carry that stuff although I haven't looked in a long time.

The plexiglass scales look great.

As far as I know Brownells still carry the brushes and lapping compound. I once considered putting a jewelled finish on a dubl duck blade that had some pitting that would have been difficult to remove completly but was otherwise a good blade. Might just dig out that little duck and give it a jewelled finish!

well you have certainly goofed, if that is your first effort you haven't left a lot of room for improvement, excellent effort ,good idea with the shank ,I have a mill and I may give the jeweling a go myself
Kind regards Peter

You can also use a wooden dowel (1/8", 1/4", whatever size you want your jeweling to be) and valve grinding compound, available at any auto store. That's a cheap, easy way to do it, and it works very well. I've done it on a couple of my handmade knives.

Thanks for your replys I will have to try using a dowell and some abrasive sometime.
Like I say I couldn't have done it without all your guys posts. and photos.

I like what you did with shortening the blade and getting a dandy little razor out of the process. My question there. When you used a cut-off wheel for the blade, did you turn the steel on the good half of the blade any color - like blue or brown? A tip for those who may not know... Do any cutting slowly so as not to elevate the temp of the blade beyond 550 degrees. You will anneal the steal in the areas that the color changes and render this area of the blade useless. You can eliminate the evidence of color, but the area is still damaged.

I think you would be better served by putting in washers for see-through scales. I make my own out of .012 thick mylar that I picked up at a hobby shop. It comes in different colors. Drill a 1/16 inch hole in the mylar, and then use a leather punch for whatever diameter washer you want. Try to keep the circles concentric.

My last bit of advise is to make the scales thinner. A good job, however, and good thinking about the blade repair.

Well when I cut the blade I had a cup of ice water and wet a thick shop paper towel with the ice water and put it next to the area where I made the cut, it's an old silversmiths trick I learned from my uncle when cutting and making steel stamps using W1 Tool steel. By the way I'm a third generation silversmith, anyway I put the thicker handles just to see how they would feel in my hand during use, and to my surprise I feel I have better control of my razor and rather like the new feel. I may try a 7/8 or 8/8 with the larger handles if I find a nice fixer upper on E-bay cheap.

Thanks Bill for the tip on the washer bit I never thought of using my leather punch pliers for washers. I will do that on the next one, and maybe try colored ones and put a colored wedge in try to give it a red white and blue look.

And thanks for the other responses from everyone you guys have been most gracious hosts with the most, what can I say but Im hooked.