Thread: Strop Making Supplies

Went out to see my buddy, Button and had these little "hackers" thrown together for a song.


Buddy decided to not use the small bit of 6/7 oz leather.

Two 3" x 30" veg tanned leather strops!

Where did you get the 3" D-rings?

Originally Posted by Kees

Where did you get the 3" D-rings?

I got mine at a store called Atwoods Ranch and Home.
They're actually Heavy Duty Anchor Ring and Base Cargo Locs.

I would have rather found chrome or stainless, but good luck with that.
You can find Atwoods online.

A 2 inch D ring works fine with a keeper, easily made from a piece of leather.

2 inch D rings are available from Ace Hardware and Tandy Leather.

Here is a template for the keeper, you can sew, glue or use Chicago Screws, also from Tandy.

Or just fold over if your leather is thin enough, (Kangaroo).

As a custom holster maker for the past 24-ish years, I have a 'bit' of experience working leather.

9-12oz "Harness" leather would, IMO, be the best thickness and type (quality) for strops. Tandy is a very good supplier and have most any type and size needed. Occasionally, they have 'cut-offs', if you do not want to purchase a double shoulder or side. Single shoulder, most likely will not be larger enough, as towards the edges, the leather gets thinner and is irregular cut.

As for hardware:

"D" rings can be found at a local horse tack store (They are used for belly cinches). IMO, most Chicago screws are really not the best for fastening. I get 99% of my "T" posts and screws from Knifekits.

Here are a few links, that may help:


Screws:
KnifeKits.com™ : Knife & Gun Making Supplies and Tools Mounting Hardware

Slotted posts:
Slotted Post - Stainless Steel - Black Zinc - (1/4 in) - 10 Pk

Eyelets:
Eyelets - #8-10 (1/4) - Black Finish - for .125 KYDEX®/HOLSTEX®


Finish Washers:
Finishing Washers - #8 - Countersunk - (Black Oxide)


As far as tools:

Slicker:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...-double-groove

Drawing gauge:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...ool-draw-gauge

Edge Bevelers:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...-edge-bevelers

Hole punches:
Punch Set - Small - (5/64, 3/32, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 11/64) - (8pc)


Now, are ALL of these tools required? Of course not. Are these the best tool? Of course not. The tools I have in my shop are, anywhere, from 5 to 150yrs old. Some I've made, some I've found, some I've been given. I've bought from retailers, wholesalers, flea markets, pawn shops...just about everyplace. It just depends on how much you want to do it.

One 'pointer', if you will, that I can give: When working with leather, be it cutting, beveling, burnishing, etc. Moist leather works much better and gives a better finish. Take a sponge and dampen the area you'll be working. Dampen...not soak. You just want the leather to turn a touch darker in color. Give it about 30 seconds to soak in...then work the area (cut, skive, bevel, whatever). Dampening the leather prevents the ragged, frayed looking edge.


With all of us 'use to' working around sharp things, we are already aware of how quickly you can cut yourself. Leather, is no different. Other than the fact that you will be using more force to cut than most is use to. And with the nature of leather, some areas may cut quicker than you anticipate. Always keep "booger-hookers" out of the way...just in case!


Hope this helps!

.b;,nnnn n nh +

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<bump>
Thanks for all this info!

Jerry