Thread: Hex fasteners used on Hart razors

Gentlemen-
I aquired an old razor that I would like to unpin to clean the gunk from where the tang is set in the scales. Other than this, the scales are fine and the blade is ready to hone and go with no further restoration needed. I do not want to take the time right now to learn how to pin in the traditional manner, however (that will probably come later). I like the looks of the hex fasteners used in the Hart razors -- are they "universal" enough to use in my case, or will there possibly be length and/or width issues? I know that in the end it will come down to a "don't know until you try it" kind of a thing, but I'd like to get as much infor before I start buying parts and disassembling razors.

thanks a lot -- Gags

You will need to drill out your pivot hole in the blade to accommodate the Hart hexes. I believe they are 1/8 OD. If you opt to drill out the pivot please use a drill press medium speed and use cutting oil or at least drill chill.

Traditional pinning is easier then putting in a sleve and barrel but to each their own

info and sources for all kinds of pinning is here

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Traditional pinning is easier then putting in a sleve and barrel but to each their ownl[/url]

gssixgun-

Can you please elaborate on this -
I have never pinned a razor, so I have no experience, but I cannot see how this can be true. If (big IF here) the Hart fasteners fit without any modification to the razor, it would seem to be as easy as driving a screw with an allen wrench. Pinning requires hammer blows to shape a straight sided pin into a mushroom-like fastener (this is what I see, without ever doing it, so please correct me if this is not an adequate, although simplistic, description). It seems that traditional pinning includes more variables in the equation, meaning more chances to crack scales, ding blades, or produce a less than perfect product.

I am interested in hearing the reasoning behind your statement - it would be good inspiration to give it a go!

thanks a lot

Screw fasteners like Hart or torx, requires a barrel nut for fasteners to thread into. Smallest is 1/8", not the 1/16" that razors are normally drilled to. This is the first hassle. Requires drilling out the hardened razor pivot.

Also means the scales need to be drilled larger. Not difficult, but you must be committed that the scales will always to use threaded fasteners.

The barrel nut needs to be cut to proper width, and screws trimmed to fit. Need to make sure threads are clean, no burrs, and thread easily. Of course, both wedge and pivot side, so doing twice. One small screw rolls away, even at a later date, needs to be custom trimmed again.

Threaded fasteners want to lossen up. Yes can tighten. Regular locktite would need reapplication each time. There is a gummy type locktite to be used for adjustable fasteners, but that is only present for so long too.

Drilling wedge for larger hole might get too close to edge. They are heavier than pins, so extra weight at wedge might impact balance.

Those are a few of the reasons more of a hassle off top of the head.

Much easier to pin. Much easier to tighten pivot latter.

Only mechinacal benefit, I feel, the razor does feel more solid swinging on the larger diameter pivot.

I suggest start with traditional pinning first. I feel would be difficult to tackle the more advanced technique, if not comfortable with the basic process first.

I could have never said it all it better

TY Walt

Take some Popsicle sticks drill some 5/64 in holes through them and pin them together like 5 pins per set.. Note the 5/64 and not the 1/16 the pins can swell a touch from a percussion bulge from the peening and a 1/16 in hole will split the scale, also there should be a bit of "slop" in the system for adjustment...

Trust me here, you will learn how to pin really fast because if you do 2-3 of the Popsicle sticks and don't snap them into twigs the scales will be fine

BTW this is a copy and paste from my website e-mail just today


Hi Glen,

I have a couple of razors that need a little attention. I'm hoping you can give me a ballpark estimate (assuming you're taking work these days), and of course a mailing address.

First razor: It's a (named removed Custom) that won't stay tight in the scales to save my life. (Even when it's tightened, it loosens again almost immediately.) I'm hoping it can be repinned, with a better adjustable pin than what's in there currently.

Second: A Dovo that I just can't get sharp enough. It will shave, but no matter what I do, it's not what it should be. Help! This pin could use some tighening, as well.

Possible?

Much thanks!

Or you could just get some microfasteners - they are just small nuts and bolts and washers really. No need to drill out anything bigger, but they don't necessarily look the greatest. I use them for temporary pinning until I get them done properly (traditionally).

Whether this is of any use to you depends entirely on how long you intend to wait to learn to pin in the traditional way. But they really are a good temporary fix IMO.

James.

So basically the problem (in regards to my original question) with the Hart-style hex fasteners is that they are not availible in multiple widths and lengths to accommodate existing razors. The hastle is in the prep work, not the application of the fastener itself, right?

Yes the prep work can be a biotch especially the barrel. I like the look of the hex Hart type fasteners but I notice that he only use them at the pivot and not at the wedge or at least from what I've encountered . I think this may be because it can be a bit tricky to have the wedge drilled so large and still have an aestheticly pleasing product.

Actually, These are killer to use and easy, but very permanent.

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