Thread: Why CA finish on the scales?

This (CA) is essentially the main component in Super Glue. In my experience in the past, super glue eventually breaks down with time, is suseptible to UV light (sunlight), and is not ideal for long term use. I understand that it cures fast, is durable, and clear, but with the above issues (unless I'm missing something, which I often am), isn't this somewhat of a 'quick fix'?

What other finishes do you guys use/recommend?

C utz

I like the CA finish because, as you said, it's durable and beautiful. Your criticisms of it are spot on, as well. It really magnifies the beauty of some woods (yellowheart, for example). I've used tung oil, linseed oil, danish oil, lemon oil, wax, teak oil, and Tru-Oil. So far, the Tru-Oil is my favorite besides CA. The Tru-Oil, like tung, soaks into the wood and protects it from within, but seems harder, and is glossier. Much easier and quicker to use than tung, as well. The big upside to CA, though, is its sealing and leveling properties. Certain woods, like cocobolo and desert ironwood, are exceptionally oily, and those natural oils oxidize over time, darkening the wood, and "killing" the pattern and grain. The CA slows down this oxidation considerably, keeping the beauty of the wood intact for a longer period of time. It's not a perfect finish, but each method has its advantages and disadvantages. CA is relatively easy to use, yes, but any flaws show up like a red-butted baboon at a Baptist barbecue, so you have to be pretty careful when finishing. And if it cracks or degrades over time, you can sand it down and start fresh. That's why I use it, anyway.

SRP's not actually the first place I'd heard of the CA finish, though. There's a custom knifemaker by the name of Scott Slobodian that specializes in Japanese style knives and swords. He finishes his handles off with up to 40 layers of CA, and they shine like a new penny. For razors, which mainly stay indoors, and dry, I really don't believe durability (or lack thereof) is a major concern.

I have a few razors with CA finish and they are very nice and as Joe says the wood grain is enhanced and in some cases it prevents wood oxidisation.. You do however get a plastic feel.
When I make scales I do not use CA because I feel wood is a natural tactile substance so I finish with several coats of teak oil and then polish with Briwax.


Gary

So far I've tried tung oil and CA for finishing my scales. They're each very different monsters, but, I still love them both.

As has been stated, CA polymer is susceptible to cracking and UV degredation, but, then again, so are most plastics and glues. I don't know about anyone else, but my razors stay in a nice dry place, out of direct sunlight; and, in these conditions the CA finish should last quite a while.

If you're looking for a more natural finish that preserves some of the tactility of the wood, do like gary does and goes with some natural oil finish. I use tung oil and it works wonderfully.

Some of the things I do like about CA is that is cures to a glass like quality. It's almost crystal clear, and, since it hardens good and solid, is very easy to polish to a high lustre. Tung oil on the other hand, I find gives the wood a very slight hue (which may or may not add to the look of the finish). Tung oil is also much softer, so there really isn't a way to polish it to a high lustre, you just need to be very careful when applying.