Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
The metal I buy for lined wedges is in the .005 -.010 thickness range

A hint here, if you make the scales and wedge correctly they should bow, if they bow, you are going to be trying to attach metal to wood on an inside curve...

This is not easy, and you are going to have to create what is called a "Mechanical Lock" to keep them together as the scales flex... ie: just simply glue will not work..

This is why so many metal lined scales on razors are built like a knife with a spacer and no flex, that error can cause a multitude of problems later on, trust me I have fixed to many from other "Experts"

If you decide that it is a path you are going to have to take, fire me a pm and I will go over some of the fixes with you...

Myself I try and make a razor function like a razor and have a wedge and bowed flexable scales other liners like G-10 or Acrylic work much easier because they will flex with the scale material, and if glued correctly the glue creates a good lock easily
I keep reading this over and over again and have to admit there are so many things that I haven't thought of. The fact that the scales should be curved has simply confused me I haven't factored this in at all, will this curve come from the shape of the wedge? if the wedge has a slight V to it, the scales would flare out, only to be pulled back in by the pin through the other end?

I haven't worked with, well, ANY of this material before, so I presumed the brass would be thin enough to just flex with the wood if there was any flex.

I'm just about to PM you. If it looks too difficult, I might skip the brass liners and just go for a brass wedge for the first set. I have enough wood for three more sets, so I could make two with liners, and two without, and build up my skills with the first two.

Kind of feels wrong putting a Double Arrow blade in these scales after the effort I'm putting into them

I'll post a picture later of where I'm up to with them.