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  1. #11
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    Ilija, I don't know what you mean by "wouldn't even CONSIDER doing by hand."

    Hand sanding is a pain but does give good results. If you do it a bit at a time (1 to 2 hour sessions) you will be done with it before you know it.

    Denis (aka SharkHat) sent me a 7/8 W&B a while back to see if I could do something with it. It was too much for him to attempt. He got it on e-bay for $5 but when he received it he saw that it was pitted and someone ran a rough grind wheel on one of the faces. Guess the sap thought he would refresh the razor with it but then came to his senses because only one pass was made. These were at 20 or 10 grit and were not recent either because the grind marks were tarnished not fresh.

    I did not think it was restorable and in any case thought it would take way too much time. I offered to return it but Denis told me to keep it just in case I decide to do something with it.

    Well, I just restored the blade and will post pictures of the blade a bit later. It turned out quite nice. I did it over a few days so it did not seem that difficult. I also used a bit of the coarse satin finishing wheels for my flexshaft to pick up the pace because I did not receive the flap wheels, yet.

  2. #12
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Vlad, I'll give it a shot as I'm also working on rough-finishing a set of scales and who knows how many attempts it will take me to get the bolsters right. How would you advise to deal with an uneven spot on the spine (a good amount of pitting on it was removed)?

  3. #13
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    Ilija,

    This is what I try to avoid when I restore a blade. In order to even it out you have to remove the same amount of metal everywhere else. Not just on the spine but the rest of the blade too.

    This is practically impossible. This is why I prefer to go slower and remove metal evenly. If there is a pit that is much deeper than the rest I may opt out to just leave it in once it has been sufficiently reduced rather than remove too much metal everywhere else.

    It is best to ignore the pitting and concentrate on even sanding. Once in a while check the pitting to see if you need to keep going. Other than that ignore the pitting. Trying to give more attention to the spots that have more pitting does nothing but make the blade uneven.

    I would say leave the unevenness as is or you chance ruining the blade altogether. A little dip on the spine won't affect honing. A thinned out spine will.

  4. #14
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Thanks Vlad... And gradual work with the 120 grit flap should even it out as well b/c I make sure I go over the whole blade evenly when I get to that stage.

  5. #15
    MOD and Giveaway Dude str8razor's Avatar
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    Ilija, I have used the Craftsman belt sander, first link below, on three scales and the sander works pretty well if you are careful. As Vlad mentioned it will remove wood pretty quickly. I used 120 grit paper and now have 220. The unit uses 3X21 belts and runs at 394 to 820 ft./ min. I don't know what that is in RPM but it is pretty slow at the slowest speed. Since it has a three position handle I can run the sander upside down and lock the trigger and set the speed that I want and form the scales. I have thought about using it to grind blades but have not done so and am thinking that I may not because of the 3" belt which would be hard to do a blade that is near or less than 3". The flap wheels and Vlads sanding discs seem to be better.

    Since them I have bought a Delta belt/disc sander, second link below, which is pretty cool. With this baby you can sand your scales vary nicely as it has a 1" belt and runs fairly slow and also do some minor work on your blades. You can get belts up to 330 grit. There is a pulley on the top of this unit that I have looked over and thought that maybe this may work to do some blade work haven't tried it yet. Bill Ellis actually has one of these. I call this unit my "Burr King" LOL.


    http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

    http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=835
    if anything has been abnormal for a long enough period it then becomes normal.

  6. #16
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    For fine work on steel that may be a bit fast. It equates to about 4800 passes across a 8" bench stone per minute. It is a little faster than a 6" bench grinder. For wood it should be okay depending on the grit of the belt. You might also look at the little Delta unit at Lowe's. The Delta is a 1 X 42" belt.
    I did some teak knife scales with 220 paper and a 1/4 sheet orbital sander. That went pretty fast and I had to watch the pressure and motion across the wood. It was a lot easier than attempting to reduce the thickness by hand.

    Rick
    Last edited by rickw; 11-05-2006 at 06:45 PM.

  7. #17
    Senior Member ToxIk's Avatar
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    Would it be at all possible to just put one of those foot-pedal potentiometers on the belt sander to control it's speed?

    The product is listed as having a 1/4hp induction motor, but my electrical engineering is a little hazy, so I don't know if there'd be any adverse effects.

  8. #18
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Great thinking Jason!

  9. #19
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    Jason, it won't work with an induction motor. You need a brush motor for the pedal to work. I tried anyway with my belt sander and it did not work.

  10. #20
    Senior Member ToxIk's Avatar
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    rats. Well, I still think I'll probably endup picking one up sometime; I only planned on using it for rough scale work anyway. $70 is the best price I could find. Can't seem to find many variable speed ones that are anywhere near my price range anyway.

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