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C utz My Sort of... 11-07-2006, 04:06 AM
C utz And the pictures........... 11-07-2006, 04:10 AM
vladsch Chris, It always starts... 11-07-2006, 04:45 AM
randydance062449 Chris...you did good!:) I... 11-07-2006, 05:19 AM
FiReSTaRT Good work Chris. I wish my... 11-07-2006, 05:34 AM
C utz Thanks guys! One quick... 11-07-2006, 03:23 PM
FiReSTaRT Chris, the wedge is a way to... 11-07-2006, 03:31 PM
C utz Thanks for the thickness... 11-07-2006, 09:56 PM
Mike Blue That's a fine job. It holds... 11-07-2006, 10:35 PM
FiReSTaRT Chris, It should really be... 11-07-2006, 10:39 PM
  1. #1
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Good work Chris. I wish my efforts were as successful. Had a setback today.. Used too much glue and they're stuck together so I had to cut another set of blanks lol.

  2. #2
    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!

    One quick question...
    How do you guys make the end spacer? What thickness do you make it, and how do you cut it to size?

    I just checked the 'delivery confirmation' and it looks like I'll have some supplies to work with when I get home today! Perhaps I'll be with you guys, making the scale from scratch!

    Vlad, it sounds like you have what we call in our family 'the Utzat Anger'. When something goes wrong, the "smash it" response kicks in! While I seem to be the least effected in my familey, I have done my share of "fixing" things that do not work

    ONe thing that is also a little tedious with this stuff is, I don't have a work bench! I had to sit on a stepping stool and work on the top of a book shelf infront of my computer desk (my ass and back are still killing me from sitting crouched like that on a small wooden stool!).

    C utz

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    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Chris, the wedge is a way to show your creativity, but I'll give you a pointer or two. You can either cut it from a 1/8" sheet of hardwood and sand it down to about 1.5mm on the butt end and 2.5mm on the front end or cut it from a small block of wood. This second option makes your job easier because you can cut it to the 2.5x1.5mm profile (well a bit thicker, so you can sand it smooth). I'm gonna try this with maple. Once you cut the little wedge, you use the scale blanks as a template.

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    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    Thanks for the thickness info, that'll help. I have noticed in most of the restorations that are posted here, the end spacer is less of a wedge, and more of a squared/uniform size spacer.

    What about metal spacer's (brass, steel, etc...), and suggestions? What to avoid? How to work with it?

    Is this info in Bill's 'new' restoration CD? I own the CD, but have yet to look over the new one.....

    C utz

  5. #5
    "My words are of iron..."
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    That's a fine job. It holds together design-wise. Form and function is what it's all about.

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    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Chris, It should really be anything you can shape into a wedge and keep that shape. Your next consideration should be how it would look with the scales. Metal would be more difficult to work with. I'd probably use a 0.1" thick strip of brass angled on the belt sander until it reached the right shape.

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    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    Chris,

    I use brass wedges because I like the look but it is more of a pain to taper and shape than wood or plastic.

    I use 3/32" x 1" x 24" brass strip. I sand it on my belt sander by press it down with a piece of wood to keep it flat. Dunk in water to cool it off. Mind you I did not get any metal sanding belts and resort to a 50 ro 80 grit wood belts. So a propper belt may work better.

    Afterwards I rough cut the profile on a metal bandsaw and further rough shape on a grinder. The final tweaking is done with a file by hand. Sand and polish to a shine.

    One thing to watch out for is the weight which is considerable. It also sits all the way out on the furthest point from the pivot pin. A good thing if the wood is light but may make the scales a bit heavy with denser woods for lighter blades.

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