Thread: My pipe razor

80 grit is crazy rough. My 2 cents would be nothing below around 300 unless you making one with stock removal. While lower grits get work done faster, its much easier to remove more metal in another pass than to put metal back on.

something I found that works well for me, alternat your scratch patterns when you switch grits. It make is a ton easier to see when you have removed all the previous grits scratches. When you cant see prev scratches easily, use light to show you if there are any left behind. I have found that a grit is about halfway done when I cant see the scratches easily, the second half are stubborn hidden ones you need to use the reflection of light to see. Its no fun doing another pass on both sides over one little scratch (gotta work the metal even) but is worth it in the final finish.

If you grab some chopsticks from the local chinese place, they split really nicely & easily with the grain. They make nice little paper pushers to get into the corners and edges.

Excellent idea about the chop sticks and I didn't think about a light I bet a led would work perfectly

Yes I gauge all my sanding by reflecting light to see the scratch patterns. As far as the reason for a wet component it helps keep the paper cleaner by letting it release particles other than that someone else will have to chime in. All I know is it seems to help a lot.

Well that's seems to be a idea I need to try which is better water or wd40

I can't say which is better as I've only used water because I was doing it inside. WD-40 would be better to keep the new exposed steel from rusting when you put it down but I was advised just to put a little baking soda in the water. It seemed to work just fine.

Well I don't have any baking soda but I'll give it shot with 320 next and I'll post pics

Just make absolutely sure it's dry and put some sort of oil (mineral, baby same thing) on it when your done for the time or it will rust.

Indeed I'll get to it

here is 320

Here is 1000