Thread: finishes on woods...

I really love the purplewood one that I have from you (the one you showed in the pictures with blade I think?) but the one thing that would have been even better is if the wood would have looked more like it was purple. Like you said it's more of a maroon/red at the moment. And that's a shame with a wood with a unique color like purplewood.
I think it's a matter of matching wood-finish. I really like the pictures of the Yellowheart with the tung oil...a lot more than the CA finish. So maybe it's just a matter of experience to see what matches what the best.

Originally Posted by 520dvx

ToxIK you can use denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner to thin epoxies, it takes very little. It will coagulate when you first start to mix but will quickly smooth out.

I build fishing rods and use a product called flex cote this epoxy is crystal clear. I put the bottles into the microwave for 5-6 seconds to thin the glue a bit, mix in a small container and stir with a non-porous implement (I use a small metal spatula) this will cut down on the bubbles. Spread/pour out on a sheet of aluminum foil, this will give you more working time. You can use a heat gun or an alcohol lamp to carefully remove any bubbles still trapped.

Hrmm, the flex coat sounds interesting. Does it cure to a solid polymer that may be polished? What do you use to apply it anyway? and, how many coats?

Also, would mineral spirits work to thin epoxy as well? Wouldn't using a heat gun to remove air bubbles also start to set the epoxy?

Originally Posted by ToxIk

Hrmm, the flex coat sounds interesting. Does it cure to a solid polymer that may be polished? What do you use to apply it anyway? and, how many coats?

Also, would mineral spirits work to thin epoxy as well? Wouldn't using a heat gun to remove air bubbles also start to set the epoxy?

ToxIk Flex Cote definitely dries hard but I have never tried to polish it, it is very glossy when set

I use the stainless steel spatula, but I have also used Taclon brushes too, both work quite well. I usually use two coats but I'm filling tread which will absorb more material than the scales will.

In all my years of painting/model building I have never used mineral spirits. I have used isopropyl alcohol in a pinch before and it worked fine, please test this first though. It will prolong the cure time of the epoxy but without ill effect.

Heat will speed any epoxies cure time, I don't apply heat until I have the glue in place. This will also thin the epoxy so I would recommend doing a bit of experimentation before applying it to anything you have time invested into.

If you mix the glue slowly with a non-porous implement this will keep most of the bubble at bay.

Sounds like it's worth experimenting with. I have some crystal clear devcon epoxy I can mess around with. Hopefully I can eventually grab some of that flex coat as well.

I just have one remaining curiosity though... How do you get an even coat when just applying it with a spatula? Don't you get surface variations of any sort?

Flex Cote is a much thinner epoxy than Devcon so it flattens out quite well. Keep in mind that when I am applying this to a rod blank it is rotating at a very slow RPM which helps to keep it on the blank.

I would not hesitate to try this on scales, you can apply in thin coats (I would use a brush) and add to it as necessary.

One other thing, Devcon epoxy should be applied in thin coats to insure flatness. If it's necessary to sand, wet sand it as it is like sanding a superball....

Yeah, I did a test with the devcon a few nights ago just to see how hard it cures to. Came out abit rubbery. So far the only epoxy I've used that cures rock solid and clear is some LePage epoxy that comes in little 1/2oz or so double syringe. Good stuff, but not all that economical :\

Bubbles in epxoy or other resin can be removed by sliding the container back and forth rapidly, or using an ultrasonic toothbrush, or setting it on a running washing machine, that sort of back and forth movement brings them to the surface. It may not make it bubble free but it will get rid of a lot and localise the remaining ones in a line that can then be avoided.

I think xylene can also be used to thin epoxies. Proprietary epoxy manufacturers supply their own thinners, i bet if you checked the MSDS sheets for those thinners you would find some clues