Thread: Wondering how to clean this razor

+1 to a razor and fine grit metal sandpaper with allot of elbow grease. Start higher and see if that works before moving to a heavier grit. No need to sand out scratches from a 250grit if the 600 will get the rust off first

I'm sure you got this already from the above posts but, a razor although extremely sharp, is also very brittle when it comes to a dremel wheel slapping away at it trying to remove rust. Very high likelihood of chipping said razor. I know from experience (I'll miss you Joseph Rodgers blade that never had a chance).

My woman made those very same comments to me after razor 10 or so (must be their breaking point), after I spent 6 hours hand sanding my first blade back to life...that put the brakes on my eBay shopping

It is rewarding though!

Auto Zone for most of my needs, Mothers, Microwipes and wet/dry sandpaper.

Stores By Zip Code | AutoZone.com

I think the Dremel gets a bad rap sometimes. I use a magnet holder when using my Dremel that holds the blade dead flat against so there is no chance of catching the edge. Secondly, I place a damp cloth between the blade and the magnet to help absorb any heat build-up. With these two precautions, I’ve never had any problem using my Dremel to restore razors.

For this particular razor, I’d try a little emery compound if available. That’s usually the first step I use when approaching a restoration project.

I remember reading Glen (gssixgun) once made a comment on a restoration thread about starting with polishing the blade.
At first I thought that was a bit exaggerated but really its the best advice for anyone.
After polishing take a magnifying glass (x15 or x20 works well) and study it. You will see chips, cracks, pitting, patina, active rust, dormant rust etc in a whole new light.
At this point it will be clear what you need to start with and the best approach.
Many times I have looked at a razor and thought one thing, but only after I started working on it that I realize what the best approach is.
Hope this helps.

OK, so I'll try and hunt down some Maas, if not that then Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. I'll remove as much as I can with a single edge razor then work with some 0000 steel wool. I'm not familiar with fine grit metal sandpaper, are you referring to just a wet/dry sandpaper? If so, what grit? I have NO experience with cleaning metal surfaces so I have no clue which grit to start with.

If you start with MAAS or similar polish you will remove surface dust, grease, rust etc and show what is below.
Then you can decide which grit to start with.

250 grit is the lowest I ever need to use, and I don´t use it that often.
2000 grit is very fine which I usually finish with, but there are finer ones available.

Make sure you work in a pyramid fashion ie if you don´t thoroughly remove ALL scratch marks from the previous grit with the current one you are using, the subsequent grits will not remove them either and you will not have a beautiful finish in the end.
The smaller the jumps between grits the easier it is to achieve this :