Thread: Hairline Crack on Celluloid - Repair Help Needed

Unpinned a gorgeous shoulderless boker the other day to clean up the scales, and during unpinning, a small crack formed near the pivot pin. It hasn't cracked through, but it definitely made it lose a bit of strength.

What would you recommend I do to reinforce it? I was thinking just some CA and polishing it back to a uniform sheen.

You might try an acetone weld, just a tiny bit of acetone from a syringe. That has worked for me.

Have never used acetone but that sounds like it might work. I always put thin super glue in the crack and sand with 400 grit before it dries. That usually works. If it cracks all the way through, Put CA in the crack and use a vacum cleaner to pull the glue all the way through. Then let it set for at least an hour. Better overnight to be sure. CA doesn't always set instantly. Depends on the material and situation.

I have had about a 50% success rate with CA and celluloid. Tiny bit on a toothpick touched to the end of the crack and let it sit.

Ok guys I am new to this and I have a celluloid scale with a crack in it as well and I was wondering what I could do for it because other than that the razor is in very good condition. So don't laugh when I ask this but what is "CA"?

Hobby Shops sell CA accelerator. You spray it on the joint and the CA sets instantly.

Caution. If the glue layer is thick it releases heat.

Ca = Super glue

Keep in mind there is really nothing that works on all of them as there are many different formulas of Celluloid which is why we have so many opinions of what works

CA will work on some, Acetone welding and actual celluloid welding will work on some, many just won't hold with anything except big ugly gobs of Epoxy

When using Acetone keep a bowl of water handy to stop the reaction, when you have a lock dip the scales, or you could find a melted hole the next day

It is better if you buy your super glue from a Hobby Shop. CA has a shelf life and since a hobby shop sells a lot of it it will be fresher. They have several kinds, thin. medium, and thick gap filling. There is even a specific one for plastic.

If your glue is slow to kick off, it was probably old.

I took a high-end flytying class many years ago, and we were a little horrified at how much zap-a-gap our master instructor used in fly construction. It does make 'em stand up to the forces of casting and fishing, and is easier than thread in some tricky manuevers. But still.

The salient detail I remember is that friction is a good aid to getting CAs to set. I've found that to be true for all brands and thicknesses. Rub the application point with the tip of a toothpick, or work the pieces past one another, and that'll help. I don't know how this would apply to crack repair, but here it is for broader consideration.

Best wishes to all.