Thread: The frown returns...

In two previous posts I have gotten advise on how to remove a frown from a blade and then showed my results in the second post. Here is the link to the first post: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...own-blade.html. And here is the link to the second post: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...n-no-more.html.

But, as the title to this post indicates, the frown has returned. This time the frown is on my face. I had an "oops" experience when working on the razor blade. I set it down on my work bench and while moving things around, the blade fell to the concrete garage floor. It didn't chip the blade, it broke it in half!

I never realized just how fragile these blades could be. They're made of steel, right? Or are they? If you have never seen the cross section of a razor blade, here's your chance.

At least on this blade (made by Kabeso Razor Works) it looks like there are two metals. Some kind of alloy wrapped with a very thin layer of steel. And when I say thin, I mean almost nano meter thin at some points.

I have learned several things from this experience. First, with the help of SRP members, I learned how to correct a frown in a blade. Second, I learned to be very, very careful in handling the blade around concrete. And third, I have learned just how little leeway for sanding and refining the blade there is during restoration. I won't be using Dremel sanding discs on any razors I attempt to restore. Good old elbow grease is going to have to do. And when the pitting is too bad, well, I'll just have to live with it or chuck the blade in the garbage.

But all is not lost. Oh no my friends, I don't give up that easily. Keep a watch out for some future post of mine showing the world's smallest straight razor. If I get it done, I might just bread knife it and give it to my grandson so he can shave along with his father. Sounds like a challenge and boy do I like a challenge.

Thanks for dropping in. Until later....

Randy

Murphy's law states that even if you have a heap of rubber mat laid down over concrete a razor will find the only exposed piece of concrete to fall on.. At least that's my experience.

At least you got your first break out of the way. It will happen in the shop, period.

Yes, they are made out of steel, but they are hardened so much to where they are actually a bit brittle, but that's why a single straight razor could last a lifetime. Remember, they are cutting thru facial hair that is tough...equal to a pure copper wire of the same diameter. Think about how many hairs they are cutting per shave AND they still hold up. So if you really think about it, they are actually pretty tough...just not fall or buffer proof.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

At least you got your first break out of the way. It will happen in the shop, period.
.

Yeah. Recently I made a meat slicer. Very thin and slender blade, clay tempered with a hamon.
Took me a lot of time to forge and sand it.
After HT I needed to fix a slight warp, which I thought I could do by bending the soft spine slightly.

I was none too pleased when the foot long blade suddenly turend into a 3" fruit knife.

Bruno - Ouch! Did you cry? My blade was nothing more than something I was experimenting on, a $10 throw away. Sounds like you had invested a lot of time and sweat into your blade. At any rate, you probably have the world's most time and effort invested 3" fruit knife!

I was none too happy indeed. Now it will be a fruit knife with a hamon. Knifemakers don't make mistakes, they make smaller knives

Instead of trying to force the issue, I should have annealed, straightened, clayed and heat treated it again.

Can't beat yourself up on that one. Was trying to unpin a coral (japanese western style straight) the other day, and thought I had a good grip on the scale, gave a tap to move the pivot pen some more to get the blade out and....TINK! Stopped pulled the blade out and yep sure enough chipped (hit the inside of the scale) Now I will take one of the little garbage bag ties and wrap it around nice and tight before I do that again...Live and learn I guess?

I always tape the blade before doing pin or scale work...learned the hard way too. I also use a rubber band to hold the blade in the scales.