Thread: Can't get pins tight enough on Horn W&B

I have a decent W&B FBU that had some really bad horn scales and decided to use the matching scales froma recent ebay purchase. I was able to remove the pins and the domed washers and the bass stepped washers without too much difficulty. When I pinned the blade into the new scales, I used some bearing washers since the original didn't have any. It went together okay, but now it isn't tight enough to keep from opening and centering when closing. It will tighten some after tapping, but eventually works loose. Is it because of the bearing washers I put in? I can't tap them any tighter without risking cracking them. Any advice? I think I am going to have to re-pin them.

The only time I've had this issue, it was fixed by more tapping. But I've seen where some of the razor guys offer annual tune ups for stuff like this. So I'm assuming it's something you're gonna deal with in one form or another for the life of a razor. If you think you're gonna have to repin it, then there's no reason to not continue on with tapping to tighten. If it actually happens that your scales break, at least you already considered it. How long is "eventually"? 6 months or one week? A replacement scale set runs about 15 bucks I think. Consider it fifteen bucks spent on "proving your theory".

Another reason for scales not tightening properly is if the pin you start with is too long. But even in that case, with enough tapping, you'll get it there. It'll just take an incredibly long time.

The not centering if the blade has tension is a pinning issue you should correct first.
Tap on the pin side you want the blade to move.
I have some large W&Bs that the blades are so heavy they will not stay open stay when in a razor stand long term.

What are you using for your pin & where did you get it? I ask this because I got some from Hobby Lobby one time that was really hard. I ran my propane torch over it to soften it up & let it air cool. This made the brass soft enough to use.

Could you have bent your pin? A bent pin will hardly ever perform correctly as it will stay tight for a bit, then relax & you have a loose blade. Sometimes it's just better to remove the "new" pin and re-pin.

Lastly, what are you using to pin with? Are you hitting the pin any harder than you would hit your finger? If you aren't sure, test it. Tap your finger nail once and a while just like you are tapping the pin. It takes several hundred taps on each side for a proper pinning job.

Thanks for the tips. I think it may be a combination of errors on my part. I am going to re-pin it, but I need to be careful with drilling them out so I can re-use the washers. I will try it this week.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

The not centering if the blade has tension is a pinning issue you should correct first.
Tap on the pin side you want the blade to move.
I have some large W&Bs that the blades are so heavy they will not stay open stay when in a razor stand long term.

Thanks pixel, I was just about to search for that!

To the OP I have had better luck putting tape over the pin, filing it down to the washer then punching the pins out carefully...... I can never seem to get an exact perfect center drilling!
YMMV of course.

Here's a trick - leave less meat on the pins outside of the washers. If you're trying to peen too much meat, you'll never get it tight enough. Issue #2: you may be peening too hard and bending the pin inside the blade. If you bend the pin in there, no amount of peening will tighten the scales adequately.

Trick #2 - Especially with horn or bone scales, omit the pivot washers. You'll get a fit as tight as you want as long as your peening isn't terrible.

[QUOTE=sheffieldlover;1026648]Here's a trick - leave less meat on the pins outside of the washers. If you're trying to peen too much meat, you'll never get it tight enough. Issue #2: you may be peening too hard and bending the pin inside the blade. If you bend the pin in there, no amount of peening will tighten the scales adequately.
T











Thanks! This is exactly what I did. I tried drilling out the pivot hole to accept a bushing and ended up spinning blade spine first into my thumb. Nearly cut my thumb off and ended up breaking the blade in half. Experience is a painful teacher, but in this case I am out $13 instead of half a thumb.

LMAO! At least you didn't get hurt. I used to put a buffing wheel on a drill and hold it between my legs to buff my razors, until I sent one flying across the garage. A bench top buffer is a wonderful thing, as are using all the appropriate tools, albeit expensive. Regarding pin removal, I use a dremel tool with a sanding wheel to remove pins. Sand off the head above the washer, then tap the pin out with...just about anything, including a tap lol. Put some electrical tape over the pin then sand through it. cheap protection for your scales.

I feel if you are pinning the original collars you should stop and gain skills to unpin and start again without damaging the collars. once they are too far gone, they are gone. Don't go grinding and filing and sanding until you are in possession of the skills to do it right. It takes a bit to learn proper techniques. Whacking the collars and pins off wholesale is not a technique. It is buchery. That's OK if you do not care about saving anything. Sad if you want to save everything. JMO