Results 1 to 10 of 12
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10-26-2012, 04:09 PM #1
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- Oct 2012
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- Post Falls, Idaho
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- 77
Thanked: 10Need some professional advice on blade condition
Hi all,
I picked up these two razors super cheap for some honing practice but didn't want to start hacking on them until I got a pro opinion on if the blades are salvageable or even worth salvaging. I think they can make some decent shavers regardless but would rather know one way or the other before I get my practice on. Let me know what you think.
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10-26-2012, 04:27 PM #2
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- May 2010
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- 4,562
Thanked: 1263They're not pretty but if you want to spend the time and practice they will work.
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10-26-2012, 04:32 PM #3
From what I can see in the pics they both look like they should be able to get shaving again unless there are blade damage I don't see, but I wouldn't recommend them for practice honing.
The DD is seriously overhoned at the toe, and will need to be honed using a rolling x-stroke, the C&S has a chip at the toe that has to be fixed, this will require a bit of work before you can begin honing it.
For the purpose of honing practice I'd recommend looking for razors in relatively good shape, with little or as even honewear as possible, and without need of blade restoration. They will cost a little more, but they will be way better to learn on.Need help or tutoring? Check out the .
Rune
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10-26-2012, 05:47 PM #4
They could shave but it would cost more money due to the fact that you should send it out if you are serious about wanting them shaveable
I'm a sucker for a stamped tail. Giggity.
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10-26-2012, 06:32 PM #5
I cannot give you a pro opinion but can share nooby experiences. Positive reenforcement is important in the beginning, as well as avoiding unnecessary significant dissapointment. To a limited extent, learning to hone bears some similarity to learning to golf. One can read about golfing, isn't it simply about hitting a ball into a hole, but one has to actually go do it to learn gradually how to make a decent score. Learning to hone on a beat blade needing skilled restoration with a full set of diamond plates/stones is a daunting challenge and may be a discouraging experience. One would probably be much better off starting with a lesser challenge such as getting an inexpensive but serviceable Whipped Dog or low cost SRP classified vintage razor first learning how to maintain its already shave ready edge. After one's face has proven that one has acquired the knowledge and motor skills needed to keep a straight razor shave ready, one may be better prepared to start developing the more challenging skills of blade restoration. Blade restoration can be an interesting and very rewarding aspect of the hobby. From a shaving equipment cost/performance perspective, I have fared much better acquiring razors in as good a condition as I could find/afford than through attempting to fix or pay to have fixed very worn or abused equipment. Some of that equipment was previously restored to good condition by others.
HTHLast edited by sheajohnw; 10-26-2012 at 07:27 PM.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to sheajohnw For This Useful Post:
dhat (10-27-2012), pinklather (10-26-2012)
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10-26-2012, 10:05 PM #6
dHat: SheaJohn tells ya right - and does so better than I could have said.
Thank You, SheaJohn. I hope all guys new to str8s and new to honing read this. Thank you for posting.
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10-27-2012, 12:43 AM #7
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- Aug 2010
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- Vancouver, BC, Canada
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- 1,377
Thanked: 275
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10-27-2012, 08:11 PM #8
Given that you can't add metal, you obviously can't make them whole again.
However, they are salvageable.
The first one you can either shorten, or clean up as is. It'll shave.
The second one I'd rework the tip with a dremel to make it a clean roundpoint again. And basic cleanup afterwards. And then it'll be allright again.
Btw, there is absolutely no reason to send them out for restoration. That'll cost more than the razors are worth. Reworking a point and then some handsanding and polishing is really not that hard. Everybody can do it. All of us who are experienced restorers were inexperienced and clueless when we restored our first razor.
Sure, you may make a mistake. We did too. All of us inadvertedly busted a razor, cracked some scales or sliced a finger. And then we figured out what went wrong and avoided making the same mistake twice. Plenty of other mistakes to make of course.In the end, restoring razors is fun and interesting. The only difference between an experienced restorer and you is time invested. No magic is involved.
Last edited by Bruno; 10-27-2012 at 08:18 PM.
Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
dhat (11-07-2012)
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10-28-2012, 02:16 PM #9
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Mid state Illinois
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- 1,448
Thanked: 247I think it's all been covered here. But just to clarify for my own peace of mind. These razors probably aren't good for beginner honing practice, but they are great candidates for beginner restoration practice. If you don't want to restore, and just want to hone, it's best to pay a little more and get something with no defects to practice on.
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11-02-2012, 06:21 AM #10
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Location
- Post Falls, Idaho
- Posts
- 77
Thanked: 10Hi All,
I decided to attack the crown and sword with the knowledge that I spent next to nothing on it and can't do too much damage. After several sessions on my naniwa 3k 8k I was able to disappear that chip on the toe and hone it up enough to shave with. My hone job is a touch uneven but I am pleased with my noobie honing results. When I get some more supplies in I will start looking at cleaning up the blade and making the thing pretty but for now it is a decent shaver IMHO. Thank you for all the advice. Going to try and clean up that lopsided dubl duck, neither of these blades are worth sending out so going to kill some free time for now. Will post pics as they come available.