Thread: Cell Rot on a Goldedge Looking for advice on my path forward!

Hello all!

I have a Goldedge that Most definitely experienced Cell rot. However... At the price I got this thing I am happy to Clean it up as best I can and see what I can do! I have removed all active rust from the blade area and I am not left with pitting on one side of the blade. If you look at the images I think I know exactly why the cell rot started. Originally the blade didn't center well and one scale has a slight warp inward towards the blade. I am guessing the razor was stored with this scale actually in contact with the blade and I am certain the electrolysis that occurred where they touch is was caused the rusting. My current plan is to live with the heavy pitting on the Non-show side of the blade and simply hand sand and polish with it in place. (I am afraid to go too deep into the stabilizer) I also plan to un-warp the blade by sticking a shaped wedge inside, taping the scale to it, and warming it in hot water.

My question: Are there any more methods I can use to help reduce the cell rot from taking over again? I will most certainly keep this blade oiled, but if there are some more permanent restoration techniques I could use I would certainly appreciate it!

Question 2: Any hints on how to remove the rust near the pivot while protecting as much of the gold wash as possible? 0000 steel wool maybe? Any gold wash-safe polish compounds?

This is my first post with pics so hopefully they will attach correctly!

As a rule if the scales are gassing they will never stop. If you leave the blade in those scales the rot will continue to corrode the metal. You can try it and see what happens but isolate that razor from any others in your collection.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

As a rule if the scales are gassing they will never stop. If you leave the blade in those scales the rot will continue to corrode the metal. You can try it and see what happens but isolate that razor from any others in your collection.

I agree Jimmy... I will likely be making myself a little container that has a desiccant holder in it for this very reason... I was just hoping maybe some others have had some success with any other ideas!

I have been putting quite a bit of thought into this. I work in space technology and out-gassing is an every-day concern for us! (A satellite moves when it out-gasses and EVERYTHING outgasses.... ) The way we normally handle this is to heat the materials up as high as you can go and still maintain the mechanical properties while pulling a vacuum around them. This pulls out the gasses that are present (Mostly water like everything else!) and we keep the system sealed up as much as possible until launch into space. Obviously the problem here is a razor will never be able to stay in a vacuum and the water can easily re-absorb into the scales... I have thought about heating the scales up to remove as much as possible before I start keeping the razor in a better container. Does anyone have a good idea for how hot pearlized scales like these can go before they start to lose mechanical properties? Maybe the bond between the brass and the scales would be a limiting temp? Maybe the temper on the blade is my limiting factor?

Are there any films I can put on the inside of the scales that would slow the out-gassing in that direction? My first thought is Tedlar, but maybe someone has had good results with something else?

Jimmy is right - the breakdown process affecting the scales is not reversible - they will continue to degrade and even oiling the blade will not help - the outgassing breaks down the oil into acidic oxidation elements.

It is best to unpin the blade and dispose of the scales - dissolve in acetone if you want to keep the bolsters.

More info in this thread, post #35.

Regards,
Neil

trash the scales and find some yellow (if you want it to resemble the razor now) or white (if you want it to look like it came from the factory) 1/8" acrylic or g10. You can find the acrylic on ebay fairly easily. Keep the bolsters by using the suggestions w/ the acetone. Gssixgun has a video on youtube of him doing it this way, watch it first. Don't save the scales, you will regret it when the steel has holes it just for packrat's sake!

Originally Posted by tiddle

trash the scales and find some yellow (if you want it to resemble the razor now) or white (if you want it to look like it came from the factory) 1/8" acrylic or g10. You can find the acrylic on ebay fairly easily. Keep the bolsters by using the suggestions w/ the acetone. Gssixgun has a video on youtube of him doing it this way, watch it first. Don't save the scales, you will regret it when the steel has holes it just for packrat's sake!

The pearlized scales are half of my obsession with these Goldedges! I am trying to think about how I could re-create that look with a new material and imbed the bolsters again in new scales. Maybe I should try some time extending methods while I think about how to make a new set of scales that would look pearlized! (I have thought about molding carbon fiber scales that automatically imbeds the bolsters, but I just can't see a goldedge in carbon.)

I have seen the threads on how to make your own Micarta. Is the laminating epoxy in that stuff good as a molding compound without the fabrics giving it some strength? Could I mix it with something that might pearlize and be able to be pored into shape?

Are you willing to take a chance?
Wild idea (warning never tried it myself, could have unwanted side effects). In the old days, painters used to seal canvas from the acids in oil paint using gesso, which was made from glue and calcium carbonate. They also mixed some calcium carbonate into the oil itself. The calcium carbonate (which is a base) absorbs the acid, and I have also heard that it can prevent rust.

Mix oil with calcium carbonate (calcite i.e. chalk or marble dust), enough to make the oil a little thicker, but so that it still flows. Rub the blade with this mix. The mix is sticky, but hopefully not harmful. In thin layers it should be transparent. Don't use an oil that oxidizes, as mixing a powder would typically make this happen quicker (and this could lead to forming a solid)

Just an idea

Originally Posted by carpedm

The pearlized scales are half of my obsession with these Goldedges! I am trying to think about how I could re-create that look with a new material and imbed the bolsters again in new scales. Maybe I should try some time extending methods while I think about how to make a new set of scales that would look pearlized! (I have thought about molding carbon fiber scales that automatically imbeds the bolsters, but I just can't see a goldedge in carbon.)

I have seen the threads on how to make your own Micarta. Is the laminating epoxy in that stuff good as a molding compound without the fabrics giving it some strength? Could I mix it with something that might pearlize and be able to be pored into shape?

I've not tried it but what about this Celluloid Sheet 8" x 4" for custom inlays for Les Paul guitar builders | eBay

Originally Posted by trondsi

Are you willing to take a chance?
Wild idea (warning never tried it myself, could have unwanted side effects). In the old days, painters used to seal canvas from the acids in oil paint using gesso, which was made from glue and calcium carbonate. They also mixed some calcium carbonate into the oil itself. The calcium carbonate (which is a base) absorbs the acid, and I have also heard that it can prevent rust.

Mix oil with calcium carbonate (calcite i.e. chalk or marble dust), enough to make the oil a little thicker, but so that it still flows. Rub the blade with this mix. The mix is sticky, but hopefully not harmful. In thin layers it should be transparent. Don't use an oil that oxidizes, as mixing a powder would typically make this happen quicker (and this could lead to forming a solid)

Just an idea

I like the idea! I am certainly willing to try. This isn't a shaver in my rotation or anything so I can try a couple of ideas to see if anything can help!

Originally Posted by Baxxer

I've not tried it but what about this Celluloid Sheet 8" x 4" for custom inlays for Les Paul guitar builders | eBay

That is certainly what I am looking for! I would like to be able to Mold the material myself rather than trying to shape it... I want the inlays to be flush when done, but that may be a little too ambitious! Thanks for the link! I haven't found many suppliers that have a marble/pearl look that seems right! When I do find something usually you have to order way too much!