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Thread: Should I buy a Dremel?
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12-08-2012, 03:34 AM #11
You should get DREMEL because you're a MAN. Whether it's the right tool or you have the right bit chucked up in it is another question, entirely!
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12-08-2012, 03:44 AM #12
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Thanked: 1936Take it from someone who has had hell with power tools over the past month or so. I got steel in my eye grinding some knives & about cut my thumb off making scales...stick with the hand tools for a little while to see if you even like restoration. Why do I say this...medical bills are starting to roll in and my eye still needs work to HOPEFULLY restore my vision to the previous 20/20.
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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12-08-2012, 04:02 AM #13
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The Following User Says Thank You to saitou For This Useful Post:
ScottGoodman (12-08-2012)
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12-08-2012, 04:29 AM #14
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Thanked: 2027From an older man,as you travel thru life,the day will come when you finally realize that virtually everything in life is better,if done by hand the greatest tool god ever created.
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The Following User Says Thank You to pixelfixed For This Useful Post:
ScottGoodman (12-08-2012)
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12-08-2012, 05:28 AM #15
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Thanked: 10I am two months past you on your restoration journey, here's my two cents:
If you decide to get a dremel, get a black and decker rotary tool instead, they are about $20 on Amazon and take all the dremel attachments.
If you buy a rotary tool and decide to use it to bring your blades back start with your least favorites first. I chipped three blades before I got the hang off speeds and attachments etc. I would really only recommend them for a thick wedge type grind. It only takes a few seconds to see first hand evidence of how thin a true hollow grind is.
After you chip a few blades, if you haven't decided to stop using the thing, realize that the rotary tool is really only great for removing pitting faster than hand sanding for hours. Even then you are going to have to hand sand for a few to get rid of the marks or waves left in the blade by the dremel.
A rotary tool is great when it comes to polishing and buffing the blade.
A rotary tool is great for making custom scales from scratch and removing material quick or shaping wood.
If you can learn how to use it properly, eventually the dremel is nice for getting rid of all that pitting really quickly but it will still take some time to hand sand the marks out of the blade and get an even finish.
After restoring ten or so eBay specials and four sets of scales I am getting to the point where I am much more comfortable with hand sanding and the rotary tool but also approaching the point where I don't buy eBay specials anymore.
My two cents, for what it's worth.
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12-08-2012, 05:44 AM #16
I ruined my best shaver (srd Blue Diamond 7/8 ) with a dremel tool. Just when you think your good at it...it won't f up a lousy razor....it will wait until you have a real nice one and BAM !!!!!!! If you don't loose any eye or anything at least you have a broken blade. I hand polish now ?
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12-08-2012, 06:58 AM #17
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Thanked: 28Thanks everyone for the replies, I think I'm going to get one eventually, I also wanted to know what kind of polishing compound should I get does anyone know what we can get here in Australia? also where can I find the sandpapers from I just went to a hardware store and they only had like very course grit stuff
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12-08-2012, 07:40 AM #18
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Thanked: 44Every tool has a place. A Dremel is an invaluable tool. I use it as an accurate hand drill, to adjust the shape of pins by tiny increments, grind pitting out of the tight corners near razor shoulders, buff areas of scales, shape wedges, cut heavy metal wedges, sand scales, etc, etc. but in the wrong hands, they can be dangerous, and can ruin razors.
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12-08-2012, 07:47 AM #19
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12-08-2012, 07:51 AM #20
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Thanked: 44I personally think hand sanding a razor blade is far more dangerous than a dremel or buffer. Also, at least with my buffer, I can turn 10 hours of hand sanding into 5 minutes of work. Its a no brainer for me.