Thread: Wood carving set recommendations and Dremel tool

So I would like to start attempting to make my own scales for MY razors. I don't have the $ to spend on a bunch of tools like a belt sander/band saw/drill press so I figured I'd get a dremel tool and see if I even possess the skills required to make scales.

I'd also really like to get a beginners but quality wood carving set to do some more 'intricate' work on the scales. The idea of carving really entices me. I know one of our members here does wood carving for churches/universities/private homes but I can't remember who it is so i figured I'd just ask here.

Also, since I'm completely naive when it comes to this stuff, are there any tools that are capable of carving wood as well as plastics/micartas/g10 etc so I would only have to make one purchase?

ANNND one more thing. I like the idea of file work in metal but want to be able to re-create this look in wood so again, would this fall under the wood carving set I should be looking for or is it a whole other kit of files to do this??

Thanks gentleman, in advance, for your help and recommendations.

~Jeremy

Its amazing what you can do with a chip carving knife alone. It would also be a good start to get you use to simply drawing the knife proper. I've dabbled in chip carving and was surprised at how easy it was. Mind you I was using soft basswood to carve in, which is a typical medium for chip carving. Walnut is also another great wood for chip carving. The sharp edge you will need on this blade will be no problem, I'm sure!

As for the more intricate carving, I wont be much help. Of course, a great place to look at carving tools is Leevalley.com.

If you google chip carving in the image section, you will see the typical style.
Good luck Brooksie!!

Go to a flea market and look for an old Stanley carving kit. I found mine for $10. Best $10 I ever spent.

I have a bunch of carving knives and chisels, etc., but I have to say 90% of the time when working on scales, this is what I reach for:

Veritas® Carver's Knife - Lee Valley Tools

I find the curved blades (kind of sickle-shaped) are fantastic for small detail work. I have used them on various woods (bocote, cocobola, maple, spalted woods) as well as soapstone and it works really well. I honestly can't recall if I've use it on horn or not but I have an idea for a set of scales with celtic knotwork. If I do that, I'll let you know how it works on horn.

I have done a fair bit of carving with a dremel in the past too, but usually on larger-scale projects. I'm just a bit leery of what a little slip would do when working on something small-scale. But that probably has more to do with my own level of confidence than with the tool itself.

Is the member you're trying to think of mycarver?

Might want to consider wood files and rasp and wood scrapers, you can do a lot of shaping with these and use a lot less sandpaper.

Originally Posted by Cangooner

I have a bunch of carving knives and chisels, etc., but I have to say 90% of the time when working on scales, this is what I reach for:

Veritas® Carver's Knife - Lee Valley Tools

I find the curved blades (kind of sickle-shaped) are fantastic for small detail work. I have used them on various woods (bocote, cocobola, maple, spalted woods) as well as soapstone and it works really well. I honestly can't recall if I've use it on horn or not but I have an idea for a set of scales with celtic knotwork. If I do that, I'll let you know how it works on horn.
snip....

That is a great tool. I have used only the scalpel handles for years with those blades. Just adding that the blades may be available through a hospital supply house or surplus.They are the smaller scalpel blades.
Here is only the first one I googled:
histology/scalpels
Have fun!
~Richard

Originally Posted by Martin103

Might want to consider wood files and rasp and wood scrapers, you can do a lot of shaping with these and use a lot less sandpaper.

I second this. When I lived in an apartment I didn't use any power tools in my scale-making. I would start with blanks that were relatively close in thickness to final thickness, cut out the rough scale shape with a coping saw and then work the scales with a file then sandpaper. I found that rasps removed too much at once and it was easy to take too much off.