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Thread: Dry wood, how to keep it from cracking?

  1. #11
    Senior Member Frameback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    Any natural oil will work,I have built alot of things out of teak,back when it was affordable.
    Can I order one fo rmy kid?

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frameback View Post
    Can I order one fo rmy kid?
    Maybe in my next life took me 13 mos. to build it from scratch

  3. #13
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    Maybe in my next life took me 13 mos. to build it from scratch
    But it will probably last forever... I've seen things you've built, your standards are quite high!
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  4. #14
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    Today it's the kanna (jap. plane) that is in control, the oil did help, the blade just glides nicely thru the fibers as the wood is softer than yesterday.
    Neil Miller likes this.
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  5. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lemur View Post
    But it will probably last forever... I've seen things you've built, your standards are quite high!
    Thank you,Is still alive and well,I started building the thing when my last daughter was born,she has it and my grandchildren ride it every day.

  6. #16
    Historically Inquisitive Martin103's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Miller View Post
    I have worked a lot of teak and mahogany over the years - capping and rubbing strips, decking and planking, interior fitting, etc on boats and in building houses when staircases have had to be fitted. It does have some inherent problems, like localised tear out and change of grain direction that make planing some strips a nightmare. These are mostly due to defects in the wood - not a lot you can do about that.

    And yes, it does dry out. I suppose the oil content does not change significantly, but the moisture content does - old grey weathered teak splits and cracks and skews. Throwing sea water over the deck swells it up again and stops the leaks.

    If your problem is that of splits, cracks and fissures that have happened in the timber, then I fail to see what you can do about it - oil won't 'stick' it all together. Maybe some sort of stabilising fluid or resin that hardens at the same time might help - but I don't know if they are successful with hardwoods like teak.

    Good luck with the oil treatment, though. If it does nothing else, it will get rid of a few sheets of clogged-up sandpaper for you!

    Regards,
    Neil
    Indeed Mr Miller is very well versed with teak wood for sure, i remember him talking about a beautiful bench he built himself for his dear Mother in Law, a masterpiece in my eyes.
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  7. #17
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    Ohh, no!
    My wide chisel isn't sharp, maybe I can find something to sharpen it on...
    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

  8. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin103 View Post
    Indeed Mr Miller is very well versed with teak wood for sure, i remember him talking about a beautiful bench he built himself for his dear Mother in Law, a masterpiece in my eyes.
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    Fantastic!

    The only thing that could be desired is a long-shot, to show the lake of burning oil and the Nantucket harpooners standing by in the unlikely event of asbestos underwear defeating the lake....

    Ah, simple joys to while away the trials of everyday life - thanks Martin!

    Regards,
    Neil

  9. #19
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    It's all done!

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    The base is Teak 22 x 12 cm and the stone a Hideriyama tomae.
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    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

  10. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    For being submerged in salt water for 100yrs, looks almost new,and laminated

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