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Thread: Help on boker restoration please!

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    Exclamation Help on boker restoration please!

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    I am restoring a boker 1056 and I have hand sanded it going all the way up to 2000 grit 3m. I finished it off with Maas metal polish. As you can see in the picture the blade still has tons of micro scratches. How do I get them out?? Do I need to go up to a higher grit or what? Please give some pointers I need to finish the blade by Tom

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    Senior Member Storsven's Avatar
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    Jeweler's rouge and a felt wheel
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    32t
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    Somewhere along the way you went to the next step to soon.
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    Felt wheel on a drill ok? I can't go buy a grinder just yet. Should I go back down to like 320 and work back up?

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    From your pictures I would say no to 320. Each grit takes out the scratches from the previous. If you move on to soon it may not show up until the end! :-[ Do you sand 90 degrees from the previous grit? That helps see your progress.

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    Senior Member Storsven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgeidson87 View Post
    Felt wheel on a drill ok? I can't go buy a grinder just yet. Should I go back down to like 320 and work back up?
    Absolutely! Looks like you got most of the scratches out already. I would maybe do some 1500 and 2000 again, then rogue on a felt wheel on a drill. Make sure you carefully wipe all dust from the sandpaper before you start buffing. Tiny metal filings will otherwise get stuck in the wheel and you will make new scratches.

    After having at it with the rogue you need a second felt wheel with nothing on just for the final buffing.

    Remember, all this is easier with a magnetic jig (search on this site if you don't already have made one). It is also safer since you will not suddenly have the blade fly out of your hand and break on the floor.

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgeidson87 View Post
    Felt wheel on a drill ok? I can't go buy a grinder just yet. Should I go back down to like 320 and work back up?
    No, you are always going to end up with micro scratches.

    Here is a guide on how to sand a blade:

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-howto.html
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    Stefan

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    Senior Member TrilliumLT's Avatar
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    Shine her up and hone it up. Its a very nice razor and is going to make a awesome shaver. Leave well enough alone.

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    Senior Member stingray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgeidson87 View Post
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    I am restoring a boker 1056 and I have hand sanded it going all the way up to 2000 grit 3m. I finished it off with Maas metal polish. As you can see in the picture the blade still has tons of micro scratches. How do I get them out?? Do I need to go up to a higher grit or what? Please give some pointers I need to finish the blade by Tom
    On ebay o a search for diamond paste. It comes in various grits and you use it with a dremel tool and a felt weel of about 3/4 to 1 inch at high speed. I put the razor on a piece of granet or other flat stone to use as a heat sink. I work both ways (length and across the blade) and it is some amazing stuff...it has replaced all my clay like compounds and then I use the Maas with the same little felt wheels for a final. be carefull not to let the blade rise above the granet or you might get the razor in the face or neck.
    Before all this I use sandpaper cut in small disks of about 1 inch in diameter that I cut with a circle cutter for paper (I get these from hobby lobby) I back these with thicker sandpaper disks to give it some rigidity .
    Pm me or email for furtheer help...
    this works
    Stingry

    Ps:
    from yur picture you will use the 8K gritt diamond and you will probably get your intended results...you are close...the dremem tool with felt wheels is the trick...just don't get too much heat
    Last edited by stingray; 02-26-2013 at 02:45 PM. Reason: added PS

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    Senior Member dfafs's Avatar
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    I had this same problem with my restoration. I agree with 32t, you may need to go back down in grit and work your way back up. It's hard to tell from one picture or even without seeing it in person how far back down you need to go. I had to go down to 400 then back up. I ended up going up too fast again but I only had to go back down to 1000. I would recommend trying to figure out what grit the scratches are from and go back down (this method is cheaper). If you determine they are from the 2000 you went up to (unlikely) then you can try some of the other methods mentioned. This is my 2 cents, good luck and remember to post results and what method worked for you in the end.

    D

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