Thread: Handsanding the Perfect Satin Finish.......

Good morning and happy Saturday gents! Its time to roll up my sleeves and get to work on a couple blades i have kicking around and that got me to thinking about finishes. I do my restorations by handsanding and have had excellent results to date but i typically opt for a high polished or mirror finish. I was thinking of doing my next couple blades with a nice satin finish.
I have herd that a normal satin finish is usually between 400 - 600 grit. I was wondering if anyone could share their techniques with me to achieve the silky looking satin finish i am looking for. All tips are appreciated!

WD-40

I you were to search the workshop way way back you will find that tip from not only me, but also a few of the other Old Dog Restorers

Once you get to the 400 grit level you do two "Passes" first your normal dry sanding then using that same piece of sandpaper use WD-40 or any other light oil to lubricate the second sanding pass (not water) This creates a slurry or sorts and really is what adds the glow..

Hand sanding you are going to have to go higher in grit BTW to get that really nice Satin Glow finish, the 400-600 grit recommendation is for Belts and Greaseless on the machines,,, hand sanding I used to go to 2500

Try it out I think you will be rather pleased with the results...

From the blademakers perspective, I was taught to take the steel down to a high polish, or to 1500-2000 grit, much higher finish, then with 600-800 on a firm backing surface make straight passes so the scratch lines are as straight and linear as possible from one end of the visible surface to the other. No back and forth, or you'll get little curlicues and swirls, all nice and straight what you want.

The reason for going to higher grits is to make sure you don't find a 400 grit scratch if you just stopped at 600.

Thanks Glen! I did a quick search before i posted this, those discussions must have occurred way back when! It was actually the W&B FBU with the satin finish you did for kevin that made me want a Satin finished blade in the worst way. I had no idea hand sanding required such a higher grit then belt sanding, Im glad i asked or else it probably would have came out looking dull and unfinished. Hopefuly i get around to the project today... Pics to follow.

Originally Posted by Mike Blue

From the blademakers perspective, I was taught to take the steel down to a high polish, or to 1500-2000 grit, much higher finish, then with 600-800 on a firm backing surface make straight passes so the scratch lines are as straight and linear as possible from one end of the visible surface to the other. No back and forth, or you'll get little curlicues and swirls, all nice and straight what you want.

The reason for going to higher grits is to make sure you don't find a 400 grit scratch if you just stopped at 600.

That sounds like good advice too.. Thanks!

Originally Posted by gssixgun

WD-40

I you were to search the workshop way way back you will find that tip from not only me, but also a few of the other Old Dog Restorers

Once you get to the 400 grit level you do two "Passes" first your normal dry sanding then using that same piece of sandpaper use WD-40 or any other light oil to lubricate the second sanding pass (not water) This creates a slurry or sorts and really is what adds the glow..

Hand sanding you are going to have to go higher in grit BTW to get that really nice Satin Glow finish, the 400-600 grit recommendation is for Belts and Greaseless on the machines,,, hand sanding I used to go to 2500

Try it out I think you will be rather pleased with the results...

now i have something else to try ....lol...

I seem to remember (from waay back) when I learned to finish metal, my shop teacher saying to go one direction and then the other to better see and quickly remove the scratches from the previous grit. I think I do this out of habit on metal. Of course you then have to plan your directions to end in the right one for your finish. This would be bevel to spine right ?

Originally Posted by 10Pups

I seem to remember (from waay back) when I learned to finish metal, my shop teacher saying to go one direction and then the other to better see and quickly remove the scratches from the previous grit. I think I do this out of habit on metal. Of course you then have to plan your directions to end in the right one for your finish. This would be bevel to spine right ?

Bevel to spine for certain, but would be nice to see all over the blade too.

So in regards to what Glen said, could you use, say machine oil or norton honing oil instead of wd-40?