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03-16-2013, 07:20 AM #11
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Thanked: 4That is excellent information, explained very well. Thank you. I'm somewhat challenged looking up information in both the forum and the WIKI because of very slow internet speeds. You answered several issues I've been wondering about. I have not worked with bevel angles much below 25 degrees and am concerned about the potential for creating thin cross sections. The four to one guideline is a gem. The razor I will be working on is 5/8ths wide and the spine is 3/16ths thick. Applying your formula results in 3.3, so it seems like I should be fine using the spine as an angle guide.
If the spine had been worn down to 1/8th thick that would result in a 5, and potentially too thin cross sections, correct? Do you guys have a chart that converts these ratios to bevel angles? That would be pretty interesting.
Regards,
Bruce
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03-16-2013, 02:01 PM #12
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Thanked: 2209
Pressure control while honing is the other variable. Try to keep more pressure on the edge than on the spine. I use a 60/40 analogy. Use some "torque" on the tang to accomplish this. And go slow, otherwise you lose control of what part of the edge is making contact with the hone.
Watch the water flow ( in front of the edge) from heel to toe.
Now back to my morning coffeeRandolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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03-17-2013, 12:08 AM #13
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Thanked: 4I looked into the spine/blade ratio guideline question and with some help from a handy kid's math site was able to generate bevel angles starting with the two known measurements of a given razor, (spine thickness and blade width).
My razor with a 3/16" thick spine and a 5/8" wide blade, (at 3.3 on the guideline) comes out at an 18 degree bevel.
The imaginary razor I offered as an example with a 1/8" thick spine and a 5/8" wide blade, (at 5 on the guideline) comes out to a 12 degree bevel. Very thin! I can see how useful the guideline is.
I ran another set of numbers for a blade that had a 3/16" thick spine and a 3/4" wide razor. That was a 4 on the guideline, and measured at a 16 degree bevel.
I'm sure that guys play with these numbers all the time. I'll do some looking in the WIKI. It seems to me that a simple table with the more common ratios and their attendant bevel angles would be useful at times.
More likely, when I get ashore I'll forget about the math and just start playing with real steel!
Bruce
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The Following User Says Thank You to oldgearfan For This Useful Post:
randydance062449 (03-17-2013)
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03-17-2013, 12:12 AM #14
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Thanked: 13245http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...-theories.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...zor-angle.html
The formulas in those threads can be used with Google, just plug in your numbers and copy and paste to the Google search bar and Voila' math happens
You will also find from those threads that the target Bevel angle seems to be by quite a large margin 16
PS: Consider yourself invited, try and make it out next weekend
http://straightrazorpalace.com/get-t...et-yakima.htmlLast edited by gssixgun; 03-17-2013 at 12:18 AM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
randydance062449 (03-17-2013)
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03-17-2013, 02:48 AM #15
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Thanked: 4Thanks Glen,
I'll look up those threads. I appreciate it!
The Yakima meet sounds great. If I can tie it in with some other activities that an 11 year old girl wouod enjoy I might swing it!
Regards,
Bruce
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03-18-2013, 02:58 AM #16
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- Feb 2013
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Thanked: 4Hey guys,
I got home today and dove into my first razor honing project. I couldn't find tape so I didn't use any. I was working on a Slater/Sheffield, 1/2 hollow, round point razor that I bought on Ebay. It was much nicer than I was hoping for. It was quite clean but had a couple fairly deep half circle dings in the edge. I breadboarded it on a diamond plate, then started with a 40 micron abrasive sheet on a granite plate. I tried to put more weight on the edge than the spine and think I did OK. When I was happy with the bevel I moved on to a15 micron sheet. I stayed with that abrasive for quite a while. I should have been a little more particular with the heavier abrasive but it all worked out. Continued through 5 microns and 1 micron.
The razor turned out fantastic! I know I've got plenty to learn but it was very encouraging. I'm going to post something in the begginners forum because it's really changed my view on straight razor shaving.
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03-18-2013, 03:17 AM #17
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Thanked: 4827For me the care and sharpening of my razors is a big part of why I choose this method of shaving. I tend to be good with my hands and also started with a lot of other sharpening experience. I do also recognize that some people start shaving will less shall we say outside skills and abilities. Like my son for example. He should and probably will take his time getting all the way in. I'm glad you managed to slip in fairly easily, not everyone does. Congradulations
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03-18-2013, 04:26 AM #18
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Thanked: 2209Congrats!
As you know from your prior experience it is easier to do a little at a time. Once steel is removed it is impossible to put it back.
BTW, check out Gssixgun info regarding a better alternative to breadknifing a razor.
I don't have the link, maybe somebody does?Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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03-19-2013, 08:02 PM #19
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Thanked: 4RezDod,
Thanks. I'm with you. The restoration and maintenence of a fine edge tool is a big part of the draw. I'm not doing as much wood working these days and have been missing the satisfaction of seeing what a fine tool is capable of. The fact that I'm actually looking forward to shaving is the biggest surprise for me! I was just hoping gto make it less of a chore.
Regards,
Bruce
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03-19-2013, 08:07 PM #20
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Thanked: 4randydance062449,
I will look into the breadknifing issue. The diamond plate was not a nice way to go. It was one of those plates with all the holes in it and it felt pretty abusive as I was using it. That's probably why I stopped short of getting the job done, (and left a small knick behind).
Thanks,
Bruce