Thread: How do you thin down your blanks?

Originally Posted by BKratchmer

you might have access to a wide-belt sander and then you can make a lot of thin stock very, very quickly... but my favorite is still #1.

This is the way I am leaning. Big belt sander and calipers to check thickness. I like to thin it down and sand out the front and back while it's still a 3x6 piece of stock. Then split it, tape together and proceed.

I find it much easier to sand the required thickness before cutting the scales. I've done this by using double sided tape on a piece of board and then using a belt sander - taping to the board helps keep the scale material aligned better. However I bought a Luthier's friend last year and this makes accurate thinning very easy. I still use tape and a paddle but it works well on the hardest woods, horn, acrylic and I've even used it to shape wedges in brass, aluminium and nickel silver.

works like a charm
STEWMAC.COM : Luthiers Friend Sanding Station

Now, see, that's what I'm talking about. Awesome! I am going to make one of those this weekend. I already have sanding drums and a drill press.

Originally Posted by eod7

Now, see, that's what I'm talking about. Awesome! I am going to make one of those this weekend. I already have sanding drums and a drill press.

Well, I wish I had your abilities - I had to buy one from Stewmac AND have it shipped to the UK. It was after using this that I started to have the scales a lot thinner than I had previously. Before then I was working with Ebony and Rosewood and even allowing for the belt sander, I was still doing lots of hand sanding - the Stewmac just makes life so much easier.

I hope your home made version works just as well. Happy holiday week-end.

Rob

If you do not have a sander, and want to thin the stock, you can use a nice flat surface and sand paper.
I use a granite plate in the sink, tape sand paper on it, tape the blank to my DMT and get great results. The blanks are always evenly thinned. After that hand sanding does the rest.

That's a good idea but I assume you need a fairly regular blank to start with. The great thing about the luthiers friend is that any difference in thickness or even warping is automatically sanded out if you turn the blank during the process. I've had some pretty twisted pieces of horn that have worked just fine.

Originally Posted by UKRob

That's a good idea but I assume you need a fairly regular blank to start with. The great thing about the luthiers friend is that any difference in thickness or even warping is automatically sanded out if you turn the blank during the process. I've had some pretty twisted pieces of horn that have worked just fine.

the way I do it everything comes out very even, just have to be careful where the pressure is applied at the beginning. I too turn on either side to be sure both are even.

They really do work as advertised.

I want to leave work so I can go work on this now.