Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
Like Tree6Likes

Thread: First handsanding progressions Ever!!! What do you think?

  1. #1
    "Whatever you are, be a good one" dtrain17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Central OHIO
    Posts
    182
    Thanked: 25

    Default First handsanding progressions Ever!!! What do you think?

    First of all I want to thank all of the SRP members for the wealth of knowledge, it still amazes me how much you folks are willing to share and help guide the rest of us.

    I am starting my FIRST EVER restoration project. I chose a Wade and Butcher hollow ground round-point as my first victim. The blade itself has a small amount of pitting and rust but I thought it would be a good one to start with. I ditched the scales and then began my journey.

    After reading several other users "how to's" on hand sanding I did the best I could with the grits I had available to me. I can live with the results but I know there is much room for improvement. One particular pitting mark was quite deep and I decided to leave it after sanding quite a while in fear of unevenly sanding a divot in the blade (I know to evenly sand the entire length of the blade) or taking off too much of the steel. I started with 120 grit all the way up to 2000 before finishing on the buffing wheel with some Blue Magic polish.

    After finishing I can still see some scratches and I'm sure this is from moving on to the next grit too quickly or too much of a jump between grits or a combo of both. Overall I am pleased with the results for my first time and realized how much I need to make a sanding stick to save my hands. Also, I relish in constructive criticism so please share your thoughts.

    There are a few small pit marks near the edge which should come out with honing when I set the bevel.

    Apologies for the poor lighting in the photos, a light-box is my next project.

    The finished product is post #3 is this thread. Thnx
    Attached Images Attached Images           
    Last edited by dtrain17; 05-20-2013 at 12:40 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sweden, Gotland, Visby
    Posts
    1,888
    Thanked: 222

    Default

    Looks nice, the smooth lines of the blade lend it self well to hand sanding.
    Sometimes even a very fine grit paper can pull away a piece of metal and mess everything up, mostly on stainless steel.
    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

  3. #3
    "Whatever you are, be a good one" dtrain17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Central OHIO
    Posts
    182
    Thanked: 25
    Last edited by dtrain17; 05-20-2013 at 01:01 PM.
    Geezer likes this.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Naallen12's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Nuriootpa, Australia
    Posts
    130
    Thanked: 27

    Default

    Looks good
    If you are worried about some of the scratches, try to use some sort of lubricant while sanding upwards from the lower grits. I use either water or parafin oil while I hand sand which IMO give a smoother finish than just dry sanding.

    Nick.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to Naallen12 For This Useful Post:

    dtrain17 (05-20-2013)

  6. #5
    Lookin like a crim baldy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Coffs Harbour Australia, Home of the Big Banana
    Posts
    2,706
    Thanked: 1072

    Default

    Nice work, looks good to me.
    Nothing wrong with leaving a trace of pitting there IMO.
    Dont get me wrong, I love a mirror finish, but as you said, sometimes you dont want to remove too much steel.
    Sounds like you have learnt a lot from reading, and experience will teach you the rest.
    You making new scales?
    Grant
    "I aint like that no more...my wife, she cured me of drinking and wickedness"
    Clint Eastwood as William Munny in Unforgiven

  7. #6
    "Whatever you are, be a good one" dtrain17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Central OHIO
    Posts
    182
    Thanked: 25

    Default

    I have some pins, washers, etc. on order right now and am going to attempt to make some scales soon. I still need to get some scale material. Probably a hardwood or horn, I wonder if one is more forgiving than the other for the first time around in regards to sanding, polishing, making scales in general? I did save the intact old scales and will probably just use them for reference and not get too crazy.

  8. #7
    "Whatever you are, be a good one" dtrain17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Central OHIO
    Posts
    182
    Thanked: 25

    Default

    Just ordered some grey G10 scales for this blade, gonna try to keep it clean and subtle. I will post some pics of my success or failure of my first run at making some scales. With all the info in regards to making scales on SRP I do believe I can at least make a valid attempt.....
    baldy likes this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Jonah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    354
    Thanked: 57

    Default

    I think you did a great job. Patience is key and you're off to a great start.
    JimmyHAD:My wife told me if I bought another razor she would leave me ........ and I miss her sometimes......

  10. #9
    Senior Member Badgister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Montreal, Quebec
    Posts
    1,630
    Thanked: 260

    Default

    nicely done!

  11. #10
    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Val des Monts, Quebec
    Posts
    4,065
    Thanked: 1439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dtrain17 View Post
    I have some pins, washers, etc. on order right now and am going to attempt to make some scales soon. I still need to get some scale material. Probably a hardwood or horn, I wonder if one is more forgiving than the other for the first time around in regards to sanding, polishing, making scales in general? I did save the intact old scales and will probably just use them for reference and not get too crazy.
    That's a good looking blade!

    I know you've ordered some G10 already, but just for future reference, horn has the advantage of not requiring a finish (other than perhaps a soak in some neatsfoot oil) whereas wood will need some kind of finish to seal it up. Both can work fine, but there are some different processes involved.

    Since you've already done a great job sanding the blade, you have probably already seen this, but just in case, here's a link to a ton of useful info:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

    Good luck!
    Geezer likes this.

    It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
    This was and still is my favorite combination; beautiful, original, and worn.
    -Neil Young

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to Cangooner For This Useful Post:

    dtrain17 (05-22-2013)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •