Thread: Norton 3x grinding wheel - any experience?

Hi all,

I'm just starting to experiment with razor repair and creating new blades out of a 3 foot length of O1 tool steel I came across.

I only have a small 1x42 grinder and am hoping to get some better belts next week, but the contact wheel isn't impressive compared to those big belt grinders, and I have only tried hollowing the steel with my regular 8" bench grinder so far.

Has anyone tried the Norton white or blue grinding wheels that are reputed to run cooler? I was burning my fingertips (and work hardening the steel) on the grey wheel, and am thinking of trying the Norton. It's under $60 from Lee Valley (Canada) and hopefully will keep me from having to find any new equipment.

Thanks for any input,
Atchbo

Originally Posted by Atchbo

Hi all,

I'm just starting to experiment with razor repair and creating new blades out of a 3 foot length of O1 tool steel I came across.

I only have a small 1x42 grinder and am hoping to get some better belts next week, but the contact wheel isn't impressive compared to those big belt grinders, and I have only tried hollowing the steel with my regular 8" bench grinder so far.

Has anyone tried the Norton white or blue grinding wheels that are reputed to run cooler? I was burning my fingertips (and work hardening the steel) on the grey wheel, and am thinking of trying the Norton. It's under $60 from Lee Valley (Canada) and hopefully will keep me from having to find any new equipment.

Thanks for any input,
Atchbo

I and many others have used the white and pink wheels for grinding of hardened cutting tools. They are fairly porous and a light touch is necessary. Yes, they do cut with a lot less heat going into the metal being ground. I have one on a 6 inch cheap grinder and use it often. I did re-grind one razor with it and got a good result. A careful attention to the orientation of the blade at all times in needed. A one inch width wheel is minimum! Any shakiness will show plainly on the finished blade.

A single careful pass, little pressure, full length, and non stop, is needed on each side and a cool water quench between each set. Actually it is the same process as with a belt grinder. The equal passes on each side are necessary to get an even grind

Practice the strokes without the grinder running for an hour or more each day for a few days to get a nice even rhythm;and then carefully thereafter with a piece of junk stock and grinder running. The time spent will be paid back many times over in good results.

Warning:
1. The wheel is very fragile and will crack or break if hit. If cracked, it may explode during use. It should sound bell like when lightly tapped with a wooden hammer or hammer handle on its sideMOTOR STOPPED!
2. The wheel must be trued before use. Otherwise they load, fill with swarf, burn your steel, and may vibrate badly, enough to shake a grinder off the table.
3. NEVER EVER use the wheel on aluminum or soft metals. It may get chunks of metal welded to it and explode when used for steel afterward. It happened top me when an apprentice did that deed. I was lucky that only small chunks left the wheel and I was wearing safety glasses.

Please read this whole article! It may save your sight or more of your body parts.
Grinding wheels and the preparation and use of them
Good luck!
~Richard
And! Please see all the Wiki articles on grinding razors.

I have often wondered why there was not much spoken about these grinding wheels. I have seen what looks like very nice fine wheels at Rocklers and thought about giving them a try. I think I'll stick to building a belt grinder. More choice of grits and it sounds like a lot less hassle. Umm not to mention the danger. I am sure in the hands of a seasoned tool grinder it may be one way to go and I have seen the old school razor manufacturing methods and machines that use them. Maybe those were different stones all together. But ,once again, those guys didn't just sit down and start turning out razors on them. Although possible it doesn't sound like the easy way to go.

Originally Posted by 10Pups

I have often wondered why there was not much spoken about these grinding wheels. I have seen what looks like very nice fine wheels at Rocklers and thought about giving them a try....snip....

The fine grit wheels are usually for wet grinding. and yes they do work well for that purpose...if you have the high buck equipment to use them. Remember they are sharpening wheels and are not very efficient at grinding large amounts of material. I do use a couple WEN / Craftsman wet wheel machines on occasion to clean up a blade. They are not bad and are cheap. And they are very slow!
~Richard

So you mean the 1750/170 rpm wet/dry one for $80 or so? I saw one at Canadian Tire yesterday that looked promising, but I would guess it will take years to hollow out a 1/4 x 8/8 razor in O1 steel.

Originally Posted by 10Pups

I have often wondered why there was not much spoken about these grinding wheels. I have seen what looks like very nice fine wheels at Rocklers and thought about giving them a try. I think I'll stick to building a belt grinder. More choice of grits and it sounds like a lot less hassle. Umm not to mention the danger. I am sure in the hands of a seasoned tool grinder it may be one way to go and I have seen the old school razor manufacturing methods and machines that use them. Maybe those were different stones all together. But ,once again, those guys didn't just sit down and start turning out razors on them. Although possible it doesn't sound like the easy way to go.

Yeah, but trust me, it gets real exciting in teh workshop when a 6 foot belt breaks....safety first, or afterwards....

Originally Posted by Atchbo

So you mean the 1750/170 rpm wet/dry one for $80 or so? I saw one at Canadian Tire yesterday that looked promising, but I would guess it will take years to hollow out a 1/4 x 8/8 razor in O1 steel.

I have this one from a trade. The flat wheel is about 1k and great for a bevel cleanup. I am missing the White wheel.

~Richard
That white wheel may be a good dry cutting wheel as the white are usually quite open grained.