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Thread: Repair Advice

  1. #1
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    Default Repair Advice

    I have this Wade and Butcher that I found on ebay. It honed up really well and shaves just as good. The fact that the blade is dirty looking doesn't really bother me. I used same Maas and it started to clean up well. What I'm worried about it the rust in the pivot area. Seems to me that it may still be active with the classsic red color. The scales are original and in good shape, so if I can do the work without unpinning the razor that would be great. If not, I'll have to send it out that is beyond my skill level at this point. Thanks for any advice!
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  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    That is a magnificent classic razor.To do it right it should be un-pinned IMO.send it to one of the resto guys in classifieds.
    Is the right thing to do for such a blade.
    Cangooner likes this.

  3. #3
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    That is a magnificent classic razor.To do it right it should be un-pinned IMO.send it to one of the resto guys in classifieds.
    Is the right thing to do for such a blade.
    I agree 100%!! That will be a very nice razor!

    Let a Pro handle it, if you want the patina left, just tell them so. There also different levels of how cleaned up you want to go. I'd also have those scales cleaned an polished up while they are off the razor. Hopefully they aren't delaminating and can be saved!

    You could also have them hone it, then you will have a gauge to judge how you are doing! While I've been honing for a few years now, every once in a while, I'll send one to Glen (GSSIXGUN) just for some comparison.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    As above find someone that will restore it as close as possible to the way it was,not polished to the way it was not orig.
    Is a fine line between restorers and true restoration.

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    Please dont mind my bad english, iŽ Rockabillyhelge's Avatar
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    A very nice Razor, but unpinning seems a bit a risk for me, i would take my dremel and polish the rust away with the silicon polish wheel, i guess if its stored dry, there will no heavier rust attack be.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Dremel on that blade is your worst enemy.pls do not do that.

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    Please dont mind my bad english, iŽ Rockabillyhelge's Avatar
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    I meant not for the Blade, only for the Regions around the Pin, and only with very soft action, the silicon polish wheel i use is very soft so there no big risk to ruin something.

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    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Heres some great advice given by Tom (Sharptonn) A few tips and tricks he posted on a different thread for a guy trying to do the same thing. Some of the best unpinning advice. Skip down to post #7.

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ns-please.html
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

  9. #9
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockabillyhelge View Post
    I meant not for the Blade, only for the Regions around the Pin, and only with very soft action, the silicon polish wheel i use is very soft so there no big risk to ruin something.
    With all due respect,I have to disagree,JMO

  10. #10
    Please dont mind my bad english, iŽ Rockabillyhelge's Avatar
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    I guess we all have our special way to solve problems with Rust.
    After looking at the W&B with its possibly dry Scales and risks of fracture whily un-pinning,
    i thought (and think) cleaning with mounted scales would be better (even avoiding the stress
    to pin the scales new).
    But after i read Harrywallys Link to Sharptonns Way to use the Rustproblem i would prefer
    Sharptonns way.

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