Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24
  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    5,003
    Thanked: 1827

    Default

    Well, I'm not sure I can accuratly answer your question since the edge on my blades goes back to my noobie days around 8 months ago and probably gets better with the newer blades I added. Using mostly a different blade each day I may have used each about three times w/ too many different blades in between to remember the experiance with that blade the last time.

    What I can say is that the different types of carbon steel will break down at different rates and the finer the edge, the faster it breaks down. Storage also plays a role in the rate of deterioration. Storing a blade in a container tht will not allow for air flow and/or absorbe mositure will have a faster oxidation than open air flow or absorbant material. That said, I purchased 5 straights 15 or 20 years ago at a local auction. The blades were in really fins shape with no rust or tarnish. I tried to figure out the straight razor stick nut with no internet or SRP to help me I didn't get too far. I put the blades in a paper covered wood cigar box and stashed it in a draw. Aout 8 months ago I dug them out when my son started shaving. They looked like they did when I put them away 20 years ago. One was a Pipe, one a WP&R Wheel, one a Wade and Butcher, one a Robeson and the last I don't recall the make of right now. I would asume they are different steel composition so the storage preserved them. Here's a pic of the Robeson (made ny Boler). I didn't do any Mass or other polishing to it befor the pic. Why did these stay so well preserved w/o any oil or fancy protection? Was it the cigar box? This may be a good experiment for someone that has the time and patients. Has anyone tried parking their straights under a pyramid yet? I am curently storing my blades in test tube stand that holds 50 blades, tooth brush stands and some in razor rolls in a safe with lots of large silicone gel packs. No issues of rust. Previously I had some in the china cabinet for a while just to keep them out of the way and I notices corosion on the edges after a few weels. I have two tool boxes of presision Tool Maker tools w/ the silicone packs and the tools are as good as they were 17 years ago when I packed them up while other hand tools in the same room but not the tool boxes rusted. I am sure this will relate to the edge of our blades and am interested in hearing about other success stories where the process did not involve oils even though oils do provide a solution as do others like Tough Glide.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)

  2. #12
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    11,544
    Thanked: 3795
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Up until the MN get-together, I had been dipping my razors in a 0.5% solution of olive oil in isopropyl alcohol to protect my blades. Terry Knipschield, the knife maker, told me at the get-together that it was his understanding that olive oil is slightly caustic to steel.
    I hadn't considered that, but as Bruce pointed out, olive oil is a vegetable oil, and is actually a fat. Camellia oil is as well. When either breaks down, the resulting fatty acids could interact with the steel and cause its degradation.
    For that reason, I have switched to using a solution of mineral oil and isopropyl alcohol. The mineral oil should be inert and so blades should last longer with it.

    I would suggest that Camellia oil should not be used for long term protection of blades.

  3. #13
    BHAD cured Sticky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,306
    Thanked: 230

    Default

    I haven't noticed any edge problems with more than six razors that sort of fell out of my usual rotation. They were sharpened and stored for at least 8 months. All were coated with mineral oil and placed in a plastic pencil box containing a desiccant. About half were also in their own boxes.

  4. #14
    50 year str. shaver mrsell63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pothole County, PA
    Posts
    2,258
    Thanked: 522
    Blog Entries
    2

    Question EDGE DETERIORATION

    Lynn


    Regarding your post on 12 - 11 - 08 about Edge Deterioration, I'm wondering if there is the possibility that minute air pockets are formed in the steel during the forging process and manifest themselves on the edge. I have a carbon razor from the 40's or 50's that is essentially a brand new razor I purchased in the 1960's and only started using within the last year. I discovered the deteriorated edge on the same day that I came across your December 08 post.

    I look forward an acceptable explanation for this phenomena. If you ever find out the source of the problem, please post it. Thanks ..... JERRY S

  5. #15
    Senior Member AusTexShaver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    359
    Thanked: 72

    Default

    Interesting thread that I must have missed back in December so here are my thoughts.

    As a sailboat owner who is working toward selling everything that doesn't fit on the boat and leaving for good it seems like I'm dealing with the issue of long term storage in a highly corrosive environment on a daily basis.

    It's been my experience that unless whatever you are trying to "preserve" is completely clean and dry before you apply whatever preservative you are using there is the chance that there will be just enough contaminant present to cause trouble...and that includes treating a dry material in a humid environment. It could be those razors that seemed to dull while in storage were not as clean as you thought when you oiled them or at some point became contaminated due to a less than complete application of oil...and I'm not trying to slam you with this remark as I've had stuff rust that I had thought was bulletproof because some of the preservative had wicked off due to inadvertent contact with an absorbent material.

    It's also been my experience with razors that it's pretty easy to damage the edge while prepping them or cleaning them for use after storage. Even tissue paper (or a Q-Tip) can dull the edge if you're not careful. The other thing I've noticed is when switching between different razors there is a short re-learning period before my technique is up to par and I'm fairly sure I've needlessly rehoned a few.

    Or maybe you just have bathroom gremlins that sneak in a shave with your stored razors.

  6. #16
    Senior Member sebell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    928
    Thanked: 144

    Default

    Thanks for resurrecting this -- I will have a chance to test this
    in a couple months when I return to my home and native land.
    I usually store my razors without any oil of any kind, so these
    will have 4 months of disuse without protectant. I shall report
    back, but you folks will have to be patient

    - Scott

  7. #17
    Large Member ben.mid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Oxfordshire, England
    Posts
    3,096
    Thanked: 763

    Default

    Hey Lynn, do you think it may just be that your honing's improving over time & that you can get better results as time passes than when you last honed the razor? That's what i find too!

  8. #18
    50 year str. shaver mrsell63's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pothole County, PA
    Posts
    2,258
    Thanked: 522
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default More on edge deterioration

    This is in reference to Lynn's December '08 post.........

    I just had another thought about the possible cause of edge deterioration. Back in the 90's I killed quite a few Bonsai trees by watering them with "softened" water until a co-worker pointed out that by passing my house water through a water softener was putting salt in my water and the salt killed my trees.

    Rinsing my razors in softened water might also be damaging the blade edges. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?? JERRY

  9. #19
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    519
    Thanked: 17

    Default

    mrsell63, you are exactly correct. The "filters" that are sold to softer our homes' water aren't filters at all, they are ion exchange resins. True, they take out Calcium, Iron etc which result in hard water but the metal ions have to be replaced with another metal ion, mother nature doesn't like to allow electrically charged anything, much less water. So the Calcium, Iron and other ions in regular tap water are replaced by Sodium ions and so you are drinking dissolved Sodium ions which we all know is bad for one's health and is more corrosive that the metal ions it removed. If you buy the more expensive Potassium ion exchange resins the bad effects to your health are averted but the water still is quite corrosive. I drove a girl salesperson crazy one evening with all this. she finally left in tears. That's the kind of amusement that PhD chemists enjoy!!!

  10. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11042

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blaireau View Post
    So the Calcium, Iron and other ions in regular tap water are replaced by Sodium ions and so you are drinking dissolved Sodium ions which we all know is bad for one's health and is more corrosive that the metal ions it removed.
    So where do we get non corrosive water to drink ? Non PHD mere mortals want to know .
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •