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Thread: Why lapping film rules
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02-20-2009, 02:37 PM #1
If this is what you see on your (second photo)
Sorry it is not better .You have not seen right polished razor edge.Sorry to say or you may seen just wanted show this as a experience?
both picture 's are worse then if you finish with Escher or Nakayama .if you use slurry.
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02-20-2009, 02:52 PM #2
It would be sweet if you told us about your complete hone progression!
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02-20-2009, 03:12 PM #3
ifyou are asking me then
it depends what conditoin is blade before i start to sharpen blade
my lowest grit is 1000
highest is
Escher has been for a long time but i know find out NAKAYAMA DOES same or better job
in the middle of it could be
used norton 4/8k i use alot because it is cheaper
and many more natural 4-7k stones
Belgians you named it
again middle depends on blade conditon ,material and etc
if you check that picture i think they even not come out 8k.
he uses some lapping paper which i am not familiar with but i know how edge look like after final finish with natural hones.
hope this helps.
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02-20-2009, 03:24 PM #4
Oops I am sorry, my question was addressed to Seraphim! But it is good to know yours, too.
I now use 800 grit -> white Arkansas from Col. Conk -> coticule w/ slurry -> bbw w/ slurry -> chinese 12k -> coticule w/ water and I am quite happy with the outcomes. I do not want to get into pastes but the diamond film sounds interesting.
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02-20-2009, 03:59 PM #5
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Thanked: 735Progression:
5um
3um
1um
0.3um
0.3um on paper
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02-20-2009, 04:04 PM #6
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03-26-2012, 11:36 AM #7
... does anyone know where i can find a video of how to use lapping film??
........i've read the thread, but if i don't see it being done, i don't want to try it....
.......thanks in advance......
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03-26-2012, 05:19 PM #8
You really do not need a video explanation. All the actions are exactly the same as with a "normal" stone.
All you need is a flat surface like a glass tile, or granite or similar.
If you have the PSA version: stick hte film to the subtsrate via the pressure sensitive adhesive.
If you have the non PSA version: wet the film and the substrate and the film will stick automatically.
Either way, wet the film afterwards and consider it a normal stone that does not need lapping, but will wear in time.
Carefully sharpen your razor in any direction you want
the desired lapping film grits are:
5µm for resharpening, quick and agressive like a 2k stone
3µm for prepolishing, quick but smoother. Like a 5k stone
1µm for absolute polish, quick, extremely smooth, extreme high polish
(keep in mind: these "grit to JIS" comparisons are made via my own experience. Do not get confused too much with the numbers and grit ratings)Last edited by Lesslemming; 03-26-2012 at 05:29 PM.
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03-26-2012, 05:22 PM #9
...Lesslemming, thank you for the great information....
..........and even moreso for taking the time to write it all down.........
.........much appreciated.........
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02-20-2009, 04:30 PM #10
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Thanked: 735I agree these are not the best edges I've ever seen either.
I was doing a quick progression at lunchtime when I could sneak my razor in on the scope here at work.
I agree also that you can get similarly good results off of natural stones. I have razor finished by Russel Baldridge, he used a Nakayama, and the edge on it is fantastic (though I never looked at it under the scope...).
But I do hear alot of folks say that they have "a hard time" honing stainless, new steel TIs, Wacker razors, etc. In that case, I would recommend the lapping films, as they will cut through absolutely any kind of steel with no fuss whatsoever.
Here is a pic of a different razor that I actually spent some time working on after coming off the 1um. The finish is much nicer than the 1um "quicky" that I show in my original progression pics above. Same 200x magnification. No paper backing here.