Thread: When dealing with big old wedges...

Do you find that there is much more of the lower grit honing required? I'm not sure that is the case with mine, but I have taken it through a pretty thorough progression starting at 1000, 1500, 2000, 4000, 8000, 16,000. These are honing films, not stones. I then used 1mc diamond paste and .5mc chro on a balsa strop. The toe and heel pass HHT, but the middle does not. It also is not shaving well at all.

Should I start over with this? I get the feeling that the bevel was not set right. That's the only reason I can think of why it would not be cutting along it's entire length.

Ideas?

Sounds like a bevel issue and that you may have a dip in your film. That is to say that somewhere along the progression the middle is not getting love.

What does the bevel look like under magnification ? Did you use the TNT as you worked on the bevel ? I don't move up in grit until it passes that TNT and then after I look at it under the 30x if it looks right I move on in grit.

No more TNT from there I rely on the TPT. Pyramid most likely but not necessarily. Depends on which hones I'm working with. One way or the other I always do the two tests and rely on the microscope or loupe before I move on. Just what I do, not necessarily the only way but it works for me.

I'm guessing the bevels aren't meeting all along the edge yet.

An old wedge might need a lot more honing if the bevels aren't there yet.

Some like to put one or more layers of tape on the old full wedges to get a faster bevel and save the spine some wear. You can take some or all of the tape off once the bevels are close, or not. I sometimes use 325 diamond on the really thick wedges.

Originally Posted by Sticky

An old wedge might need a lot more honing if the bevels aren't there yet..

A LOT more !!!!
Huge +1

Originally Posted by FastEdge

Do you find that there is much more of the lower grit honing required?

Almost always. Try going back to 1k and working on the bevel more.

I have found the larger less-ground wedges take way more time than the average full hollow razor of similar dull condition. Using hones to take out chips in those big old blades is the pits

Personally I still use 1 layer of tape on the spine. I know more will make it go faster but I would rather put more time in. YMMV.

Yes, I use one layer of tape when honing. I think I will take it all the way down and make sure that the bevel is set.

Thanks everyone.

Ed - I usually use 2 (sometimes 3) layers of tape for wedges, but then again I start on a really aggressive hone like the 220 norton and/or 325 diamond plate. I dont replace the tape because it's reason for being there for me is to save excessive wear on the spine, not to make the job go faster - by the time I get to 6000 it's worn right through and any future touch-ups will then not require re-taping, which is nice.

Regards,
Neil