Thread: What is the more important stone ???

Eh... (first off, we're assuming everything is done properly)

it is the variation against the face. it is that you can get distinctly different effects with different finishing stones on different blades. true?

The fact is, the bevel setter is there to set the bevel. To get the edges from both sides of the bevel to meet. By the time you get done with the finisher all traces of the bevel setter and edge developer are GONE. The artifacts of the finisher remain.

Look at it another way. If you end up with a properly honed/finished blade, is there any way to tell what was used for bevel setting or edge development?

Originally Posted by Quick

Eh... (first off, we're assuming everything is done properly)

it is the variation against the face. it is that you can get distinctly different effects with different finishing stones on different blades. true?

The fact is, the bevel setter is there to set the bevel. To get the edges from both sides of the bevel to meet. By the time you get done with the finisher all traces of the bevel setter and edge developer are GONE. The artifacts of the finisher remain.

Look at it another way. If you end up with a properly honed/finished blade, is there any way to tell what was used for bevel setting or edge development?

Absolutely correct there should be no way of telling.....

This is why I think a larger repertoire of bevel setters would benefit the edge...
Like thinner ones for smiling and warped blades, softer ones for harder steels etc: etc:

Lets look at a list:

Norton 220
DMT 325
Shapton 500
DMT 600
Norton 1k
Shapton 1k
Naniwa 1k
King 1k
Wet r Dry 1k sandpaper (argh !!!!)
DMT 1200
Shapton 2k

Which did I forget???? let's keep it under 2k, even though we know that with slurry many others can be pressed into service also....

Originally Posted by gssixgun

A
Which did I forget???? lets keep it under 2k, even though we know that with slurry many others can be pressed into service also....

four more hones in the list that I don't have and didn't know that I need .

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Absolutely correct there should be no way of telling.....

This is why I think a larger repertoire of bevel setters would benefit the edge...
Like thinner ones for smiling and warped blades, softer ones for harder steels etc: etc:

Lets look at a list:

Norton 220
DMT 325
Shapton 500
DMT 600
Norton 1k
Shapton 1k
Naniwa 1k
King 1k
Wet r Dry 1k sandpaper (argh !!!!)
DMT 1200
Shapton 2k

Which did I forget???? let's keep it under 2k, even though we know that with slurry many others can be pressed into service also....

Fore some strange reason I've wanted to try the Sigma Power 1K and 2K as I've read favorable things about it's performance on carbon steel over at knifeforums.