Thread: Dmt 1200 for setting bevel

I'm of the mind that using Diamonds plates/stones for sharpening at the higher levels is a bit overkill for a razor, and that "normal" stones are better suited once a bevel has been established.

Using a coarser diamond plate/stone for establishing an edge has the advantage of flatness and speed, but too coarse can cause chipping. At the higher levels, the scratches will initially be deeper than other finishing stones, and then will have too little action after the stone wears past its prime.

Using too coarse a diamond plate/stone for lapping can also be a little overkill. I wouldn't use the DMT 8XX (extra, extra coarse) on anything over 1,000 grit (in fact, on a well maintained 1K, you could effectively use the 8F (fine), which is 600 grit). Using too coarse a plate/stone on a much finer stone will wear down the diamonds (and the stone) unnecessarily fast and can leave grooves in the surface of the stone. For higher grit stones, you can use a higher grit diamond plate/stone - on a 5K stone, you could use the 8E (extra fine), which is #1,200 grit. In fact, the Shapton compact lapping plate works on this theory by using different grit powders to correspond with the different grit stones. The coarse powder is about #80 grit, the medium is about #800, and the fine is around #4K. Ironically, the much more user friendly (and expensive) DGLP is a #325/375 mesh, and the DGLP is about #600 grit on both sides. I guess it's not too cost effective to be spriknling diamond powder on a lapping plate all day long.

I'm rambling now.

Originally Posted by jendeindustries

In fact, the Shapton compact lapping plate works on this theory by using different grit powders to correspond with the different grit stones. The coarse powder is about #80 grit, the medium is about #800, and the fine is around #4K. Ironically, the much more user friendly (and expensive) DGLP is a #325/375 mesh, and the DGLP is about #600 grit on both sides. I guess it's not too cost effective to be spriknling diamond powder on a lapping plate all day long.

I'm rambling now.

I assume you mean the DRLP is 600 grit on
both sides? Could the reference side be used
on straight razors for bevel setting?

- Scott

I was thinking that after a lot of use maybe the diamond bits are slowly falling out as the steel wears down over time and use????

The reference side is essentially a #600 grit diamond sharpening stone that can be used to flatten out a blade. Harrelson suggests using it in conjunction with the 1K stone for checking progress rather than as a pure sharpening stone. I've used mine plenty as a 1st step stone, and then jumped straight to the #1,500 pro.

I 'm not 100% sure about the lapping side grit. The lapping side is recommended for 1k and up, but not for the #120, #220 & #320 stones, so the grit must be greater than 320, but less than 1000. It would make business sense of the grits on both sides were the same, though.

Just to clarify, the DGLP is #325/375 and can be used on the Glass #500, but not the Glass #220. For the coarse grits, the compact plate is best.

I only have dmt 325 and 1200, so I do not know what does the 8000 do.

Tonight I had to use the 325 for about 45 minutes to hone out a 1/3 bevel wide chip. I first spent 10 minutes on the 1200 before realizing it's going to take ages, stopped on the 325 when there was just 1/20th bevel wide remaining of the chip, spent 10 more minutes on the 1200 and went back for 5 more with the 325 to get it out fully. So that's about 20 minutes of wasted honing on 325.
the scratch marks are certainly deeper than the naniwa 1000, but that doesn't tell us much since direct comparison is only meaningful between the same abrasives.

overall is's still fast hone compared to the others I have, and on many razors it sets a rather nice bevel.

before breaking it in good, it had diamonds protruding above the main surface so that caused me a bunch of pain when I was just learning.

if you can take photos of the scratch patterns with the two hones that may be useful. I'll take some with mine, and as long as we are looking at the same razor it should be good comparison. how about a double arrow?

i can take picture only in 200x and in that case magnification so much you won't see any scratches. After using it while you will see it is sharpenening speed will go way down

Originally Posted by Sticky

All my DMTs have become somewhat finer with use.

The gap between my 1200 and 8k hones (several of each in different sizes) is still fairly wide; but I use them about equally. I sharpen far more knives and wood tools than razors.

Mine too, especially the 325...

This is a good one! The 1200 has diamonds in the 9 micron range. The 8000 has diamonds in the 3 micron range. The 1200 should give you a much coarser finish than the 8000. Have you looked at the finishes under magnification?

unfortunately yes .
Now i am in point of that dmt 1200 is slower and does leave similar edge to 8000.i check the bevel and you won't see scratches anymore.
before when i start to use dmt 1200 you could see clear all scratches sometimes without magnification on the blade. now with 100x you can't see anything.
i am sure people will use their dmt's more and end up in my situation then this thread will make more sense.

unfortunately yes .
Now i am in point of that dmt 1200 is slower and does leave similar edge to 8000.i check the bevel and you won't see scratches anymore.
before when i start to use dmt 1200 you could see clear all scratches sometimes without magnification on the blade. now with 100x you can't see anything.
i am sure people will use their dmt's more and end up in my situation then this thread will make more sense.

About how long did it take for the 1200 to wear to its present state?