Thread: Microbevels with the Shapton 30000

I am sure others have done this before but I have been experimenting with microbevels with the Shapton 30000. I has given me the sharpest and smoothest edge to date. It is easy to do and is repeatable.
If you have a Shapton 30K and have not tried it, I would like to know what you think. Here is what I do:
Basically, create your bevel as normal up to and including your 16000.
Then the final step, add one layer of tape and let all that 30000 out on a very small fraction of the bevel. Give about10 skillful laps and take a look, TPT or a shave.
Do not strop or add and further development with paste etc.
The final edge is the smoothest, cleanest and sharpest edge I have ever seen or shaved with to date.
Michael

Mike

I have gotten my best shaves to date off the 30K - no strop. I didn't try the micro bevel off the 30k, but I recently sharpened one of my reed knives up as a razor (for an experiment with another member, but that's another thread...), and went to 16K, then put a micro bevel @16K I did strop, though. It was an acceptable shave, but admittedly, I was more concerned with not killing myself, as the blade had a handle like a Japanese razor, but a 3 inch blade!

I just did my bismark on the Naniwas and after the 8K I put a piece of tape and did 15 laps with the 12K. Again, I did strop and will shave in just a little bit. After that, I'll redo the bismark up to the 30K like you did - no stropping. (my poor bismark - every week something new...)

Originally Posted by jendeindustries

Mike

I have gotten my best shaves to date off the 30K - no strop. I didn't try the micro bevel off the 30k, but I recently sharpened one of my reed knives up as a razor (for an experiment with another member, but that's another thread...), and went to 16K, then put a micro bevel @16K I did strop, though. It was an acceptable shave, but admittedly, I was more concerned with not killing myself, as the blade had a handle like a Japanese razor, but a 3 inch blade!

I just did my bismark on the Naniwas and after the 8K I put a piece of tape and did 15 laps with the 12K. Again, I did strop and will shave in just a little bit. After that, I'll redo the bismark up to the 30K like you did - no stropping. (my poor bismark - every week something new...)

Glad you are on board Tom, it is nice to hear what others with decent sharpening skills really think and get other points of view.
Now what to H#&l were you sharpening with? I am glad there are other crazys out there, kind of makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
Mike

I have been revisiting this also. Since I don't have a 30k Shapton, I am using my Spyderco UF instead. Again, 1 piece of tape, and I tried 30 laps first on a dry stone. Shave was buttery smooth and repeatable. That was with no stropping. I am now trying to lower the laps, and have also added stropping to the equation. When I strop I am removing the tape. I found that the flexibility in the leather allows it to work just fine without the tape. I am going to back down to 5 laps, on a new edge, and see how it goes. From here I will work my way back up again to find the overkill point. What I would like to see is if it is possible to create a bevel so small that it will be totally unnoticed yet have a positive effect on the sharpness of the blade. I'll let you know what the results are, when I am through.

Ray

Stropping is King; _fish.

To me though it is like meeting a great man at a train station. When just as he shares his deep insight a train passes; drowning out what was told.

I am happy to see others listening to the honed edge. If you are already taping I guess just add another layer?

Stropping can always be done later, a separate lesson

Originally Posted by kevint

Stropping is King; _fish.

To me though it is like meeting a great man at a train station. When just as he shares his deep insight a train passes; drowning out what was told.

I am happy to see others listening to the honed edge. If you are already taping I guess just add another layer?

Stropping can always be done later, a separate lesson

Believe me Kevin, no illusions of earth shattering news here. Lynn earlier said he worked with microbevels too and it is still relaively new in the razor world. Ray I don't know too much about the spyderco hones on how they relate, but I am greatful to have you try what you can. It really boils down to a alternative way to finish the blade.Everything else is the same as normal. I don't know what to make of it yet other than it works good enough where all my active razors got the treatment.
Also gives me some justification for the HAD attack on the 30K Shapton. I hope some Shapton users give it a try or a retry to get more feedback would be most helpful

M

So do these micro bevels last as long/wear as well as a properly sharpened razor with a single bevel? Also, how do you touch up with a razor with one? The same amt of tape used to create the bevel, or with the same amt of tape used when honing (if any was used)?

I use Shap 30k stones all the time to hone razors. Just got a call today from a guy who sent me a Japanese razor that I dialed in and finished on a 30k and he says it's the best shave he's ever gotten. He even said he didn't need his doctor wife standing by to stop the bleeding he'd gotten before. I'm not crazy about the Japanese razors and I did send the guy a Wade & Butcher which he said does great on his face. They're both finished to 30k. Now on to microbevels. I'm not crazy about microbevels. Awhile back Tim Zowada posted micropix of microbeveled razors and they were astoundingly sharp . . . for awhile. A number of folks reported that although very sharp at first, the edge didn't last very long. I will have to try it though as I'm always looking for . . . the perfect edge. Thanks for the post!

Originally Posted by Howard

I use Shap 30k stones all the time to hone razors. Just got a call today from a guy who sent me a Japanese razor that I dialed in and finished on a 30k and he says it's the best shave he's ever gotten. He even said he didn't need his doctor wife standing by to stop the bleeding he'd gotten before. I'm not crazy about the Japanese razors and I did send the guy a Wade & Butcher which he said does great on his face. They're both finished to 30k. Now on to microbevels. I'm not crazy about microbevels. Awhile back Tim Zowada posted micropix of microbeveled razors and they were astoundingly sharp . . . for awhile. A number of folks reported that although very sharp at first, the edge didn't last very long. I will have to try it though as I'm always looking for . . . the perfect edge. Thanks for the post!

Thanks howard for your participation. Your experience is most welcome and will add depth to our little project. Time and personal preference always play into how one likes their blades finished. Hopefully we can learn and collectively get a better idea about sharpening in general.
Mike

Day 2:

So I've used the razor twice that I put the 30k microbevel on. I stropped before today's shave, and the shave was pretty much the same as yesterday's. The razor is VERY sharp. I still think I prefer the edges I get finish with a Nakayama (no micro-bevel), but I will still try this razor until the shave quality diminishes. It removes hair very easily and the shave is quite good. The difference between this edge and the edge off of my Nakayama is hardly discernable, so this method definitely produces a nice edge with the one razor I've used it on. The bonus with this method is that it's very quick. I bet you could even get away with 5 strokes on the 30k to produce the microbevel since you're only honing away a small portion of the bevel. IIRC Lynn recommends 5 laps on the 30k to start out with, so I think that would be enough on a micro-bevel. I'm just speculating, so it's totally up for debate. The razor I used is a Spike Union Cutlery btw.

So I think the real question everyone is wondering about is edge longevity. Well, that we will have to wait and find out for! Will report back.