Thread: A second bevel added late.

This is just a question for you guys that may get some quick responses and in return help me out a little bit. I recently saw a thread here on adding a microbevel using a 30K hone and I wanted to know if this would be beneficial for my own honing routine.

This is what I usually do for my razors, although sometimes I DO use the unicot method Bart has on his website:

DMT-e for bevel setting
norton 4k/8k pyramids until I can shave off the 8k. Sometimes I go back to the 8K a few times to get the shave better, I then stop.
Naniwa 12K
Coticule with water for polishing.

Could I use the tape and add a small "microbevel" on the razor during the last coticule stage or the 12K stage and add a performance to my razor that is not already there? The temptation to add extra "umph!" to the razor is getting to me, and I want to try this without damaging the edge ERN Ator.

I'm wondering the same thing

Originally Posted by Disburden

This is just a question for you guys that may get some quick responses and in return help me out a little bit. I recently saw a thread here on adding a microbevel using a 30K hone and I wanted to know if this would be beneficial for my own honing routine.

This is what I usually do for my razors, although sometimes I DO use the unicot method Bart has on his website:

DMT-e for bevel setting
norton 4k/8k pyramids until I can shave off the 8k. Sometimes I go back to the 8K a few times to get the shave better, I then stop.
Naniwa 12K
Coticule with water for polishing.

Could I use the tape and add a small "microbevel" on the razor during the last coticule stage or the 12K stage and add a performance to my razor that is not already there? The temptation to add extra "umph!" to the razor is getting to me, and I want to try this without damaging the edge ERN Ator.

Actually, I think that is what Bart does at the end.
Mike

I saw an episode of How It Is Made about razors (all types). When they showed how disposables are made, the factory created the initial bevel but then created a second micro bevel (similar to what you have described).

I have no idea if this relevant to your question or straight razors as disposables do not need to be stropped and such, just thought I'd throw it out there as additional information.

Questions is does second bevel helps or not?
I think answer is depends.
Case 1
Your razor made from crappy steel (most of you know names) or very soft steel
Will it help i am sure it will.
Explaination crappy steel will not get to the shaving sharpness level they will just broke down. when you add 1,2,3 layer's of tape angle changes and there is more metal support to the edge compare without tape. that is why it will work
Case 2
your razor made from good steel i mean most old razor's(out of SS blade's they are a little different)
sheffield,GErman,ice tempered steel etc
i think will not help.
There is zero benefit of secondary bevel to good steel.
why because you are getting surtain sharpness (the maximum ) out of the blade .
doesn't matter you add tape or not edge has to get maximum sharpness.
example lets make it simple.
lest say then sharpest edge on the razor is 10mm thickness.
Now i can add 2-3 layer of tape and get to that 10mm thicnkess
or not to add anything and get the edge same 10mm thickness
Now please someone
Explain if you can what is a differences between above 10mm thickness.
hope this help.

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

Explain if you can what is a differences between above 10mm thickness.
hope this help.

ooo, I think I know the answer to this one...

see the explanation of case 1

am I right?

let me say may this will help you more
if blade has a good steel doesn't matter 10mm (example ok) edge has 20mm back support of steel or 50mm support of steel.
Edge will not broke down.
hope this helps.

Originally Posted by TheBaron

ooo, I think I know the answer to this one...

see the explanation of case 1

am I right?

Sham,

what do you think about the other thread concerning Microbevels on the Shapton 30k? According to what you're saying, and you would know a LOT more than I would, these razors don't need a microbevel. They all are made from good steel to begin with, yet users say there was an improvement in the shaves. This was what made me wondering the question in the first place. The razor I mostly use is an ERN Ator shoulderless, the steel is fine, so another bevel on the edge wouldn't matter? If the Zowada razors are honed with a microbevel and the steel is good what's the point? Just a marketing plan that really has no foundation?

Have you tried the microbevel yourself on your razors and have proven your point to be true with good steel?

Thanks, I appreciate your knowledge!

All I say is try it....... See if you like it. See if it adds comfort, durability, sharpness, enjoyment. If not.... Go back to the way you had it before.

I know in the area of blades in hand block planes, this is a hot discussion. Some like it, others think it doesn't work as well.

I do know this..... It does make a sharp edge faster and easier IME. Whether it holds up as well is for you to find out. Take a microscope and monitor along the way and see how it works for you.

I do know it has been done by many here and here .... >

http://www.classicshaving.com/page/page/5016459.htm

Tim has been using microbevels for a while. This is how I honed my first razor and it worked well and lasted several months.

Barry

Originally Posted by Kingfish

Actually, I think that is what Bart does at the end.
Mike

I'm aware, I have used that method before and I like the results.

I was mainly wondering about my own honing progression and if I could place the microbevel after the 12K and still make a difference.