Thread: Tanslucents Slurried With......

Originally Posted by Alucard73

Kingfish how does the edge compare to the translucent without slurry?? i was thinking of using soft or hard to create slurry on a surgical black now i'm thinking that would just be like using the donor by itself,like using the hard to form slurry on the black would just be like using the hard by itself if it will create slurry,do you think a translucent would create slurry on a translucent?? another thing i was thinking of was using a matching slurry stone like soft on soft hard on hard etc,haven't found my broken peice of soft to try on my soft yet but do you think something like that will work??

Edges feel and look similar to slurries placed on them. Very little of Arkie IMHO.
I think if you try to generate a slury by rubbing tans-trans we will see a mushroom cloud over your house from friction required!!!!!!!!!!!All kidding aside, Trans is to brittle to mess with against itself and if you try a corner you will see little conchoidal fractures result. I did not like slurry results made from diamond nagura,but it did cut faster than plain arkie but not as fast as Jnat.

Originally Posted by matt321

Thanks for bringing this up. I haven't tried this yet, but I've been doing similar things with a Spyderco UF. I have a translucent as well, and I may try that too based on your suggestions. So far I've used Naniwa synthetic nagura slurry, Naniwa 10k and 12k slurry, and 0.5 micron diamond spray on the UF.

Here is a WSW post desribing the UF method:
An inexpensive "superhone"

RW also recommends .3 micron Alumina abrasive slurry.

I like the fact that when the slurry is applied to the hard stone you get the benefits of cutting speed without the constant lapping needs of softer stones. It seemed to me that the slurries from the Naniwas cut faster and coarser than the parent hones. My sharpest results have been with the 0.5 diamond spray.

Keith Degras from Hand American said this in a post a couple years ago: "When it comes to maintenance stones I only use one, a surgical black Arkansas stone that I spritz with 1 micron boron carbide & water." I myself haven't tried that yet.

Thanks for that post. Yes, the hard stones were important for me for my carving tools and was very suprised how functional and economical my Arkies could be for that purpose.
My next thought was to try with razors but on a finer stone. I don't think the Arkie provides much more than a very flat, non distorting substrate to hone on top of. Now the spydies might be an even better candidate for my tools as they might even make the whole process more aggresive.
I do notice a major difference on how a finer translucent makes a huge difference in the finish on a razor as I have different arkies. Slightly rougher ones cut faster with slurry but don't finish as nice for razors.
My best razor came off the finest trans with the slurry going almost dry at the end, I doubt the razor came into contact with the slow cutting arkie, it was ride on the slurry film that was broken down very fine.

Sounds like you need a Kanaban.

Nothing new under the sun, eh Jim? This is likely the reason why the Arkie made of pure silicate is effective. The pure silicate is "softer" on hardness scales than other abrasive material including Jnat.
Japanese steel is very close to hardness of arkie stone, but with slurries from Jnat they are transformed into powerful cutters. I have an "Arkie Kanaban." that is rust proof and pretty.

Originally Posted by JimR

Sounds like you need a Kanaban.

Thanks for that link. It confirms an idea I had. I just picked up 3 of those but mine are
2' x 2' precision ground cast iron surface plates. The precision grinding does leave a surface texture that will grab loose abrasive. I hope to try them out this spring.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Thanks for that link. It confirms an idea I had. I just picked up 3 of those but mine are
2' x 2' precision ground cast iron surface plates. The precision grinding does leave a surface texture that will grab loose abrasive. I hope to try them out this spring.

Randy, I've never used one myself, but from what I understand they are primarily used for coarse flattening work. I know woodworkers often use them for grinding the flat side of planes and chisels, but I don't know how high up the fineness ladder they take it.

Having tried to flatten some plane blades on diamond plates, I can see the advantage of having a really heavy, tough surface if you have to do it a lot.

Originally Posted by JimR

Iunderstand they are primarily used for coarse flattening work..

Exactly what I was thinking. My intention is to use them for the very hard natural stones like Arkansas, Charnley Forest, CH12k, TOS, etc. and using it to do the bulk of the coarse work.

I was also considering converting one plate to a lapping plate, with cross diagonal grooves. I will see how it works without the grooves first.

BTW, the reason I purchased 3 was that they were all in one auction lot.

i have tried couple Arkansas stones.
I agree they are slow cutters.
Some of them very fine i have seen only 1. i am sure there is a lot more out there but sometimes luck has to play some role to find good one.

sorry go keep it

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Exactly what I was thinking. My intention is to use them for the very hard natural stones like Arkansas, Charnley Forest, CH12k, TOS, etc. and using it to do the bulk of the coarse work.

I was also considering converting one plate to a lapping plate, with cross diagonal grooves. I will see how it works without the grooves first.

BTW, the reason I purchased 3 was that they were all in one auction lot.

Randy, a lapping plate is an excellent Idea. I use a plate of polished granite with powders sometimes, but never thought of putting grooves in it...might have to do that.

Unfortunately, the biggest kanaban I can find here is only about 3 inches wide. I'd like a good foot for a lapping plate. I'd ask you to send me one, but shipping a 2'x2' plate of steel would be ridiculous.

Originally Posted by JimR

I'd ask you to send me one, but shipping a 2'x2' plate of steel would be ridiculous.

Yup, they weigh between 200-300 lbs each!