Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: Tanslucents Slurried With......

  1. #1
    Senior Member Kingfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    1,057
    Thanked: 255

    Default Tanslucents Slurried With......

    I was hoping a few members will dust off some of their Arkansas Translucents would be willing to try some slurries off thier Translucents.

    What Works So Far:
    Nakayama-Kita Asagi-Maruichi stone and Esher.Both of these stone produced a relatively very quick finish on three different razor edges to the point of me feeling like it was too good to be true. All razors were previosly finished up to 8k level.

    i.e each stone slurried ON the Arkie produced edge similiar to slurry dononr stone.
    Nakayama slurry on Arkie felt like Nakayama edge etc.




    What Did Not Work:
    Slurries made with diamond file size hone. Any slurries made from the parent translucent sped up swarf formation, but the edge delivered was sub par.

    Not All Translucents Are Equal. I have one translucent fro Hall's that I got for tools. It is a translucent but not a waxy looking one but on the white side. Of course color has nothing to do with it, but the point is that this stone is good for faster bevel work with Norton Prep Stone for slurry on tools, it has not given me the same results as a stone from Dan's that is much finer.

    What interests me the most as far as razor applications is the fact that each edge comes off consistantly and at least as good as any I have made off the parent donor stones and quickly. Also and maybe most important in my mind is that I have never seen a stone transform in finish and speed as the translucents worked this way. It could hve to do with harder abrasive anchoring in on the softer silicate translucent. This makes sense both intuitively to me and scientific.The fact that the translucent stone is so physically hard, but will yeild to harder minerals makes a very unique platform to hone on.

    Only light slurries were made on top of very smooth finished translucent and hone until dry. It was very quick, and....if anyone else decides to try, you can tell us what you think. A light stropping on leather afterward.
    Edge looked incredibly uniform under magnification and took on apparence of donor slurry stone.
    Last edited by Kingfish; 01-31-2011 at 10:28 AM.
    Steel likes this.

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Kingfish For This Useful Post:

    Anthony416 (02-01-2011), Disburden (01-30-2011), Steel (06-12-2015)

  3. #2
    I Bleed Slurry Disburden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Carmel, NY
    Posts
    2,458
    Thanked: 545

    Default

    I love slurry experiments! If I had an Arkansas stone to try this out I would be posting a response by tonight.

  4. #3
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,521
    Thanked: 1636

    Default

    will speed up but edge fines will not change to best.
    it is not easy to make slurry because it is oil stone.
    You can use with water but you are not using max potential of the stone.
    hope this helps.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to hi_bud_gl For This Useful Post:

    Disburden (01-31-2011)

  6. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    2,746
    Thanked: 1014
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    I imagine the slurry you made with your Escher/Japanese stones was NOT Arkansas slurry, but Escher/Japanese slurry.

    As I understand it, Arkansas is made of packed crystals, not fine particles in a binder matrix--so when you use a diamond plate, the particles you release will only be as small as the grit of the plate allows them to be--i.e. not very fine at all.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to JimR For This Useful Post:

    Kingfish (01-31-2011)

  8. #5
    Senior Member Kingfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    1,057
    Thanked: 255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    I imagine the slurry you made with your Escher/Japanese stones was NOT Arkansas slurry, but Escher/Japanese slurry.

    As I understand it, Arkansas is made of packed crystals, not fine particles in a binder matrix--so when you use a diamond plate, the particles you release will only be as small as the grit of the plate allows them to be--i.e. not very fine at all.
    Yes the slurry is definately the other stones and not the arkie. It works better with softer stone donors. i.e. the very hard asagi does not leave much if anything behind.Matter of fact it feels like clash of the titans and I do not want to stress out my best stone surface. The softer Maruichi stone leaves a slurry the same color.

    I know you are not a diamond nagura fan Jim, and on the arkie I am with you 100%.

    Sham I realize this is not the intended use of an Arkansas stone, but that is what makes it interesting. I get a very smooth edge off translucent but much it takes some time by itself.
    With slurry it is much faster and it feels like the edge of donor stone and makes me happy that I can use my Arkansas stonein a similar way as very hard Jnats are used. Try it and see.
    What I like best is you can get a very fine edge this way that feels like the slurry stone.

    Disburdan, the stone I am using is a "2nd" 8-2-1/2 Dan's Trans that I got for less than 50 dollars of an internet vendor. I am having Dan make me up a full size bench Translucent I like it so much. Arkies can still be had at very reasonable prices relative to other naturals that many here use.

    I would love to try it with Naguras too. I have another stone I use for carving tools that I use a Norton Prep stone and it puts the Arkansas on steroids. I need and learned on very hard stones, because these tools rip up soft stones quick. I wish Stefan would try with his nagura selection to compare edge to his slurried Tomae.

  9. #6
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
    Posts
    7,974
    Thanked: 2204
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Your experiment reminds me of some that were done with the Spyderco hones using various slurries. I used a natural nagura and some garnet. In both cases the hone functioned as a substrate to hold the slurry abrasive. Robert Williams did the same with diamond paste/powder. I would suspect that any number of different rocks/hones would function the same way as long as they are relatively hard. Essentially what is being done is to use various materials as a substrate to hold an abrasive. Historically leather, linen/canvas/felt, wood and now stone have been used. The manmade hones and materials are next.

    We do have a lot of tools that we can use!
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  10. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    139
    Thanked: 23

    Default

    Kingfish how does the edge compare to the translucent without slurry?? i was thinking of using soft or hard to create slurry on a surgical black now i'm thinking that would just be like using the donor by itself,like using the hard to form slurry on the black would just be like using the hard by itself if it will create slurry,do you think a translucent would create slurry on a translucent?? another thing i was thinking of was using a matching slurry stone like soft on soft hard on hard etc,haven't found my broken peice of soft to try on my soft yet but do you think something like that will work??

  11. #8
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,521
    Thanked: 1636

    Default

    i went back and read your OP. At first time i didn't read and thought you are trying to make slurry on Ark and use it.
    In fact what you have tried is using Arkansas and different slurry stones.
    in your case it is escher and Japanese stone.
    The idea is same as One stone sharpening i have posted long time ago or recently i am not Sure Lynn or Glenn posted.
    what are you doing is using arkansas as a flat surface(not 100% but similar to it)
    Now arkansas stones are novoculate and when you do use them blade cuts the stone.
    Lets say molecules(just call this way for simplicity) join together.
    when your blade moves it doesn't move whole molecule from each other but it cuts some portion of it.
    lets say you have 1mm(example) size molecule as a slurry now.
    after this that 1mm molecule will never change the size. it will stay in there and even doesn't have any sharpening quality.
    In the other hand your slurries Japanese slurry will get smaller and smaller by using it more.

    By using your arkansas stone and Japanese stone you will have finer edge compare to Arkansas stone alone edge
    But
    you will have worse edge compare to Japanese stone edge.
    (lets say you do have japanese sharpening stone)
    if you do have just Japanese stone slurry only then your method is good to go.
    hope i was clear enough.
    this is the video which i posted long time ago. Basically i used different girt slurries and made blade shave ready from scratch.
    YouTube - ONE stone sharpening1

  • #9
    Senior Member matt321's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    United State of Texas
    Posts
    635
    Thanked: 139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingfish View Post
    I was hoping a few members will dust off some of their Arkansas Translucents would be willing to try some slurries off thier Translucents.
    Thanks for bringing this up. I haven't tried this yet, but I've been doing similar things with a Spyderco UF. I have a translucent as well, and I may try that too based on your suggestions. So far I've used Naniwa synthetic nagura slurry, Naniwa 10k and 12k slurry, and 0.5 micron diamond spray on the UF.

    Here is a WSW post desribing the UF method:
    An inexpensive "superhone"

    RW also recommends .3 micron Alumina abrasive slurry.

    I like the fact that when the slurry is applied to the hard stone you get the benefits of cutting speed without the constant lapping needs of softer stones. It seemed to me that the slurries from the Naniwas cut faster and coarser than the parent hones. My sharpest results have been with the 0.5 diamond spray.

    Keith Degras from Hand American said this in a post a couple years ago: "When it comes to maintenance stones I only use one, a surgical black Arkansas stone that I spritz with 1 micron boron carbide & water." I myself haven't tried that yet.

  • The Following User Says Thank You to matt321 For This Useful Post:

    Kingfish (02-01-2011)

  • #10
    Senior Member Kingfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    1,057
    Thanked: 255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl View Post
    By using your arkansas stone and Japanese stone you will have finer edge compare to Arkansas stone alone edge
    But
    you will have worse edge compare to Japanese stone edge.
    (lets say you do have japanese sharpening stone)
    if you do have just Japanese stone slurry only then your method is good to go.
    hope i was clear enough.
    this is the video which i posted long time ago. Basically i used different girt slurries and made blade shave ready from scratch.
    YouTube - ONE stone sharpening1
    I did remember that video Sham, that is maybe how I got the idea to try it with Arkie. Arkies cut so slow, the swarf is almost 100% donor stone. Some people have small Koppa of Jnats and not a large hard Jnat, so I tried it with Arkie to see.
    I had very good results, so I pass it on for others who want to try.

    By the time it take Translucent to do much of anything the slurry has already cut and broken down and all you see is very fine swarf. 40 us dollars for translucent from Dan's quarry translucent stone from internet provider 8 inch.
    Last edited by Kingfish; 02-02-2011 at 12:10 AM.

  • Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •